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Wall 3

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Frog in My Hand T 
Birthday Party T 
Blow Hard T 
Don't Forget My Boots! T 
Good God, a Cow Cut in Two! T 
Hang On, Kid! T 
I Could Eat a Horse T 
I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat T 
More Catastrophic than 'Armageddon' T 
One Year Later (Un An Plus Tard) T 
Putrid Rat T 
Shark Ride T 
What Have You Done with My Walls? T 
What on Earth? TR 

Wall 3 Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Most of the Wall 3 routes.

Description 

Wall 3 has some of the longest routes in the canyon. The sandstone is softer on the tower, but still takes perfect gear where you need it (for the most part). Arguably the best belay station in the county is under the oak at the top of "Pussy Cat," very remiscent of Church Bowl.

Rock Climbing Photo: Andreas Skielboe on "Birthday Party" on ...
Andreas Skielboe on "Birthday Party" on Wall 3 Tower


There are three sections to Wall 3: Lower Right Flank, Lower Left Flank and the Central Tower. Shark Ride, A Frog in My Hand and, for the most part, Make it 100 are done as 2-pitch routes, starting on the lower left and finishing on top of the tower. The lower right routes can also link up to the tower (which makes it more enjoyable than just scrambling up the gully).

Feel free to mix & match route sections. The criss-crossing lattice work invites lots of route modifications and basic "rolling your own."


Rock Climbing Photo: The Wall 3 Tower route starts. (The climbers in th...
The Wall 3 Tower route starts. (The climbers in the pic, upper left, are on the 2nd pitch of "Shark Ride.")


Getting Down
There is a Fixe rap ring anchor on the face at the very top of the tower. A 70m will just get you to the ground. A 60m is okay, but you will need to swing into the bushy left corner if you're not feeling the downclimb. (Actually, even if you swing into the bushy corner, you're still going to need to downclimb, but it's just a bit easier.)

Rock Climbing Photo: The view down the canyon from Wall 3 Tower. (Note ...
The view down the canyon from Wall 3 Tower. (Note the rap station.)


Rock Climbing Photo: Note where a 60m will take you when you swing left...
Note where a 60m will take you when you swing left.

Getting There 

About 60' up from the left end of Wall 2 you'll find the start of the right flank. The tower can't be seen from below. The left and right flanks are separated by a loose 3rd class gully that takes you up to the base of the tower. Left flank routes start on a big shady platform near the rock grave and old pot.

Climbing Season

For the Panic Town area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

14 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',6],['5.8',6],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wall 3

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wall 3:
Putrid Rat   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Birthday Party   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 130'   
I Could Eat a Horse   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   
I Wanna Be Your Pussy Cat   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 65'   
Shark Ride   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 2 pitches, 165'   
What on Earth?   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 65'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wall 3

Featured Route For Wall 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost a party. (Note lack of beer.)

Birthday Party 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  California : Central Coast : ... : Wall 3
The main crack up the center of the tower through the easy chimney finishing straight up on the face at the top. Sandier rock than other parts, but the slipping and sliding adds to the fun. Most of the crimpy plates on the face up top are a lot more solid than they appear. Andreas Skielboe on "Birthday Party" on Wall 3 Tower Was this named in honor of Monsieur Cheval, or was it the fact that the FA coincided with Christian's birthday? We may never know......[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Wall 3 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ches Upham on the 2nd pitch of "Shark Ride&qu...
Ches Upham on the 2nd pitch of "Shark Ride&qu...

Comments on Wall 3 Add Comment
Show which comments
By Richard Shore
Apr 27, 2014
I spotted the tower from Arlington Peak a few weeks back, and noticed all the clean-looking and abundant cracks. Thanks for posting up, Jeff. Some good crack climbing to be found here, which will hopefully clean up with more traffic. A cordless leaf blower might be a good thing to add to your rack to help empty the loose dirt and leaves out from the cracks.

Where's the entry for Putrid Rat? I thought it was the best line on the tower - long, with lots of hand-slamming fun. 5.7ish?

Also - there is currently an active beehive halfway up the lower left flank wall. Might be a good idea to stay away from this section until they move on.
By Jeff Mahoney
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 27, 2014
I listed most of my routes. All the ones without entries were put up by the other members of the goon squad. They're on MP daily; hopefully they'll start filling in the gaps.

Glad you were able to get some laps done up there. Lots and lots to climb. Wall 2 has some very good, long routes, too. (Thanks for the heads-up on the bees. A few swarms have moved through the last few times we were up there. As long as you stay at least 8' away and aren't wearing dark clothing, you're usually good to go.)

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