BETA PHOTO: Most of the Wall 1 routes.
Mark Buntaine focused on just the right piece after the starting crux of "Lovely Snowball" (4/19/14)
The first wall in the canyon (with the shortest lines from 70' to 90'). Plenty of fun with a few of the more challenging crux routes, primarily getting over the overhanging bulges on the right-side. For people new to the area, the very inviting "Lovely Snowball" will give you a good feeling for what to expect throughout the canyon. A 50m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap rings.
The shared crux of "Cinquante Briques" and the "Cinque Briquettes" variation---double your pleasure.
For surmounting the bulge, "That Bastard Gerard" and "Plug the Fish in, Cowboy" are probably the simplest, but for a deceiving and devious crux, get on "Cinquante Briques" or the "Cinque Briquettes" variation --- both much better when done on lead.
See the information for getting to "Panic Town." This is the first wall in the canyon
Climbing Season For the Panic Town area.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Wall 1
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wall 1
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wall 1:
Featured Route For Wall 1
Cinquante Briques 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b California
: Central Coast
: ... : Wall 1
On the far right side of Wall 1, there is a diamond shaped face ~1/3 of the way up the wall. Navigating this diamond is the crux of the climb. Either (1) climb the offwidth on the right, (2) pull over the bulge on the face, or (3) bypass to the left. (1) and (2) offer a few moves ~5.10. Really a 5.5 with a V0 boulder problem in the center. The original line started very far left and traversed just above the poison oak (now removed) to the base of the bulge. We were hunting for the steepest...[more] Browse More Classics in California
BETA PHOTO: The well-camo'd rap station on Wall 1. The anchors...
By Robert Holder
May 31, 2015
Thanks for putting the work into cleaning this place up! A much needed trad crag in SB :)