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Wall 1

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Slight Problem Along the Way T 
Another Quick Shower T 
Bar is Open, The T 
Cinquante Briques T 
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 
Come On, Animals! TR 
Dancing Like a Nutter T 
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 
Lovely Snowball T 
More Romantic than Casablanca T 
That Bastard Gérard! T 
You Old Fool T 

Wall 1 Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Most of the Wall 1 routes.

Description 

Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Buntaine focused on just the right piece afte...
Mark Buntaine focused on just the right piece after the starting crux of "Lovely Snowball" (4/19/14)


The first wall in the canyon (with the shortest lines from 70' to 90'). Plenty of fun with a few of the more challenging crux routes, primarily getting over the overhanging bulges on the right-side. For people new to the area, the very inviting "Lovely Snowball" will give you a good feeling for what to expect throughout the canyon. A 50m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap rings.

Rock Climbing Photo: The shared crux of "Cinquante Briques" a...
The shared crux of "Cinquante Briques" and the "Cinque Briquettes" variation---double your pleasure.


For surmounting the bulge, "That Bastard Gerard" and "Plug the Fish in, Cowboy" are probably the simplest, but for a deceiving and devious crux, get on "Cinquante Briques" or the "Cinque Briquettes" variation --- both much better when done on lead.

Rock Climbing Photo: The bulge-route starts
The bulge-route starts

Getting There 

See the information for getting to "Panic Town." This is the first wall in the canyon

Climbing Season

For the Panic Town area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wall 1

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wall 1:
Dancing Like a Nutter   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Lovely Snowball   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 90'   
Another Quick Shower   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wall 1

Featured Route For Wall 1
Rock Climbing Photo: The line of "Another Quick Shower" follo...

Another Quick Shower 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CA : Central Coast : ... : Wall 1
The thin-looking, ragged crack between Lovely Snowball and That Bastard Gérard that hits a mini roof about 1/3 of the way up. An excellent companion piece to Lovely Snowball that takes great gear all the way up---if you know where to look. Bill making the step-across move just past the oak on "Another Quick Shower." Start with a high-step rock over on the left foot to gain a hidden slot for a great first piece. (This might be the crux if you're shorter.) Follow this up to the roof, grab the undercling and make the slab step to the right and stay in this cra...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Wall 1 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The well-camo'd rap station on Wall 1. The anchors...
BETA PHOTO: The well-camo'd rap station on Wall 1. The anchors...

Comments on Wall 1 Add Comment
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By Robert Holder
May 31, 2015
Thanks for putting the work into cleaning this place up! A much needed trad crag in SB :)