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Wall 1

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Slight Problem Along the Way T 
Another Quick Shower T 
Bar is Open, The T 
Cinquante Briques T 
Cinque Briquettes (variation) T 
Come On, Animals! TR 
Dancing Like a Nutter T 
Le Grande (L'Extension) T 
Le Petit Oiseau Mort T 
Lovely Snowball T 
More Romantic than Casablanca T 
That Bastard Gérard! T 
You Old Fool T 

Wall 1 Rock Climbing 


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Page Views: 2,452
Administrators: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Salamanizer suchoski, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeff Mahoney on Apr 20, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Most of the Wall 1 routes.

Description 

Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Buntaine focused on just the right piece afte...
Mark Buntaine focused on just the right piece after the starting crux of "Lovely Snowball" (4/19/14)


The first wall in the canyon (with the shortest lines from 70' to 90'). Plenty of fun with a few of the more challenging crux routes, primarily getting over the overhanging bulges on the right-side. For people new to the area, the very inviting "Lovely Snowball" will give you a good feeling for what to expect throughout the canyon. A 50m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap rings.

Rock Climbing Photo: The shared crux of "Cinquante Briques" a...
The shared crux of "Cinquante Briques" and the "Cinque Briquettes" variation---double your pleasure.


For surmounting the bulge, "That Bastard Gerard" and "Plug the Fish in, Cowboy" are probably the simplest, but for a deceiving and devious crux, get on "Cinquante Briques" or the "Cinque Briquettes" variation --- both much better when done on lead.

Rock Climbing Photo: The bulge-route starts
The bulge-route starts

Getting There 

See the information for getting to "Panic Town." This is the first wall in the canyon

Climbing Season

For the Panic Town area.

Weather station 2.7 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Wall 1

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wall 1:
Dancing Like a Nutter   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Lovely Snowball   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 90'   
Another Quick Shower   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wall 1

Featured Route For Wall 1
Rock Climbing Photo: The highlight of the climb is partly obscured by t...

Cinquante Briques 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : Central Coast : ... : Wall 1
On the far right side of Wall 1, there is a diamond shaped face ~1/3 of the way up the wall. Navigating this diamond is the crux of the climb. Either (1) climb the offwidth on the right, (2) pull over the bulge on the face, or (3) bypass to the left. (1) and (2) offer a few moves ~5.10. Really a 5.5 with a V0 boulder problem in the center. The original line started very far left and traversed just above the poison oak (now removed) to the base of the bulge. We were hunting for the steepest...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Wall 1 Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The well-camo'd rap station on Wall 1. The anchors...
BETA PHOTO: The well-camo'd rap station on Wall 1. The anchors...

Comments on Wall 1 Add Comment
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By Robert Holder
May 31, 2015
Thanks for putting the work into cleaning this place up! A much needed trad crag in SB :)

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