BETA PHOTO: Most of the Wall 1 routes.
Mark Buntaine focused on just the right piece after the starting crux of "Lovely Snowball" (4/19/14)
The first wall in the canyon (with the shortest lines from 70' to 90'). Plenty of fun with a few of the more challenging crux routes, primarily getting over the overhanging bulges on the right-side. For people new to the area, the very inviting "Lovely Snowball" will give you a good feeling for what to expect throughout the canyon. A 50m rope will just get you to the ground from the rap rings.
The shared crux of "Cinquante Briques" and the "Cinque Briquettes" variation---double your pleasure.
For surmounting the bulge, "That Bastard Gerard" and "Plug the Fish in, Cowboy" are probably the simplest, but for a deceiving and devious crux, get on "Cinquante Briques" or the "Cinque Briquettes" variation --- both much better when done on lead.
See the information for getting to "Panic Town." This is the first wall in the canyon
Climbing Season For the Panic Town area.
Weather station 2.7 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Wall 1
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Wall 1
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Wall 1:
Featured Route For Wall 1
Another Quick Shower 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b CA
: Central Coast
: ... : Wall 1
The thin-looking, ragged crack between Lovely Snowball and That Bastard Gérard that hits a mini roof about 1/3 of the way up. An excellent companion piece to Lovely Snowball that takes great gear all the way up---if you know where to look. Bill making the step-across move just past the oak on "Another Quick Shower." Start with a high-step rock over on the left foot to gain a hidden slot for a great first piece. (This might be the crux if you're shorter.) Follow this up to the roof, grab the undercling and make the slab step to the right and stay in this cra...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: The well-camo'd rap station on Wall 1. The anchors...
By Robert Holder
May 31, 2015
Thanks for putting the work into cleaning this place up! A much needed trad crag in SB :)