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Whopper, The S 

Walking With A Ghost 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 16,967
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Jul 21, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (309)
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Adam Schrader cruising to the last protection bolt...

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  • Description 

    Thin sustained crimps, cool movement, and intricate footwork lead up a steep line. Avoid the bailout left and stay on course through the last clip for full value.
    A two bolt variation to start adds to the fun; Snake Eyes comes in from the left, starting just right of Turkey Jerky, and pulls through two amazing huecos to clip the second bolt on Ghost.

    Protection 

    8 bolts to anchors, 9 bolts with Snake Eyes start.


    Photos of Walking With A Ghost Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Small crimpin'....
    Small crimpin'....

    Comments on Walking With A Ghost Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 15, 2017
    By Alison Conrad
    Jul 25, 2008

    The crux of the climb comes halfway through the route where the crimps are bit smaller and the feet become more smeary.
    By Matt Bolt
    From: Lakewood
    Aug 13, 2008
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Awesome route; however, there may now be a second crux around the second to last bolt. A fairly crucial foot hold broke off last Saturday (8/9/08). Should still go 11+ though.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Sep 2, 2008
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Excellent work, Kirk. 4 stars. Unique sustained Eldo-esque face climbing. Tricky read.
    By AOSR
    From: Wherever we park!
    Sep 17, 2008
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Best route on the wall in my opinion. Awesome Kirk.
    By Chad M
    From: Castle Rock, CO
    Nov 3, 2008
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Great Route! Very thin and tricky. Another small crimp pulled off near the last bolt, still goes at 11+.
    By AOSR
    From: Wherever we park!
    May 1, 2009
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Sent it clean today and it def carries a stiff 11 rating with the current holds (which are all really solid).
    By Bjorn
    From: Leadvegas, CO
    May 19, 2009
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Definitely one of the better routes at the CZ in general. Excellent thin, demanding edge-work. As to the above caption, I don't think the phrase "runs it out" applies to this or any routes on this wall. Very closely spaced protection.
    By Bruce Pech
    Jun 30, 2009
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    Snakes Eyes is the start to do. Small tips are an asset in the thin crack and tiny pocket at the crux (harder, IMHO, than another fine, crimpy face -- Chairman of the Board at Avalon). Excellent route.
    By Jack C Swift
    From: Evergreen, CO
    Aug 13, 2009
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Very fun crimpy route with some tricky feet. Felt pretty sustained after the 2nd bolt. Warmed up on Ivy League, then hung draws and did Walking With A Ghost. Best route in the Canal Zone.
    By Brett Bauer
    Aug 20, 2009
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Solid 10 to 10+ face climbing with (2) 11+ cruxes and some spicy clips lands this an awesome route!
    By Luke Childers
    Sep 20, 2009
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I really liked the line. I agree with some others that there are better, maybe not as hard, routes at the CZ. I tell you this thought... if you go left too early just after the high (R) flake get ready for some crazy thin biz!! The whole wall is way cool and I plan to go back this Monday for so more I hope. Great wall and great addition to C.C.C.. Still it seems crowed no matter what time or day of the week it is!!! Cool Wall.
    By Ben Burnett
    From: Colorado
    Jun 2, 2010

    The crux is where it gets a litle harder.... No matter how many holds break it will still be 11+, right...?
    By SJG Jayne
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 28, 2010

    Awesome crimpfest.
    By Fred C.
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 29, 2011
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    One of my favorites. If you love crimps, you'll love this one. The moves definitely keep your full attention throughout. Definitely one on which to completely trust your feet.
    By Jon Zucco
    From: Denver, CO
    May 7, 2011
    rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

    Super classic! Solid 11 face, not for the faint of heart, fingers or toes. Micro-edge-fest! The business starts just after the fourth bolt and won't let up until just before the last. You are fore-warned.
    By Kirk Miller
    From: Golden, CO
    May 8, 2011

    Sent this again last Friday from the Snake Eyes start... cool throws into huecos to fun, thin biz! Not sure which holds broke off; every time I get on it, I've been using (or falling off) the same holds I used on the FA.
    By Todd Felix
    May 31, 2011

    Beautiful line. Perhaps my favorite in the Canyon. Funny, Kirk always takes the same path, but I climb it a different way pretty much every time! Sometimes just for variety, sometimes the line calls to me differently that day. They all seem about the same difficulty, too. It's like a new on-sight every time.
    By koreo
    From: Denver, CO
    Jun 17, 2011

    Awesome Line. Crimpy moves and it makes sense, no bullshit awkward moves. Well done, sir.
    By Curt Hokanson
    Jul 6, 2011
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Wonderful, thin face climb. Give it 11c on a hot and slimy day, well protected, too!
    By Hoag Hoag
    From: Littleton, CO
    Jul 18, 2011
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    A great line to practice footwork on thin holds.
    By slim
    Administrator
    Aug 9, 2011
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Really good route. The only detraction was trying to figure out how to clip the last bolt. This seemed like the crux, the actual climbing wasn't too bad. I got kind of hammered here. Went pretty easily 2nd go with the draws hung.
    By Dwight Jugornot
    From: Arvada, Co.
    Oct 3, 2011
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    IMHO best 11 route in CCC. Two super thin cruxes. Body position, foot technique, this route taught me more than any other route. Took me many tries to finally lead it clean- learning all the way. LOVE it!
    By Jessica Pemble
    From: Yosemite, CA
    Mar 6, 2012

    Incredible crimpfest! A few thin clips or two...damn! This is a rad route!
    By jmeizis
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    May 13, 2012
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    Excellent and increasingly sustained crimping. Definitely fit my style of climbing. Plenty of bolts to keep you busy (almost makes it harder). Lots of technical foot and hand sequences. Really excellent. Everything seemed really solid.
    By kipp.fo
    From: Los Angeles, CA
    Jul 23, 2012
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    "Avoid the bailout left and stay on course through the last clip for full value"

    Below that bolt there are 3 pretty good crimps...but no chalk on the direct line above. Everyone seems to go slightly left. Is this the bailout'? Or is the bailout going way left?
    By Kirk Miller
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 4, 2012

    Kipp.fo,
    Sorry it took so long to respond to your post.... The bailout is near the second to last bolt, if you cut left there the final crux can be avoided, but you end up so far to the left, it becomes difficult to clip the final protection bolt. If you've climbed right up to the final bolt and clipped it, you're on route for sure!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Oct 24, 2012
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    A great 5.11 steep slab. The difficulty varies a bit depending on how much the climber wanders and zig zags. If you follow the bolts and climb a direct line, the route is 5.11c/d.
    By JonW
    Aug 9, 2013
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Found this route to be very well protected with clean falls. Bolts are well placed.
    By Clay Hansen
    From: Colorado
    Aug 16, 2013
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Thin crimps, fun movement.
    By Abram Herman
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 8, 2014
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    I agree with Rolofson, the direct line certainly felt like 11c/d. Super thin climbing!
    By FelicityMuth
    Oct 17, 2014

    Really fun route, feet are actually pretty good, even on the thinner, smeary crux. Keep looking for small, hidden hand holds.
    By Jason Antin
    From: Golden, CO
    Apr 24, 2015
    rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    One of my favorite lines in CCC. All clips are solid. The climbing is great! Go do this route, you won't regret it!
    By CRZYFST
    From: Indianapolis, IN
    Sep 30, 2015
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13

    Loved the route. Start from the bottom, and don't use that cheater stone stack. Figure out the boulder start, itgoes even for short climbers ;).
    By aikibujin
    From: Castle Rock, CO
    Oct 6, 2015
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    I can see why this has 4 stars, it was a fun route with a very noticeable crux. The rest of the route wasn’t easy, but at least the holds were obvious, so I didn’t have trouble seeing the moves. Then I got to the crux, and it was like hitting a blank wall (literally). It took me two or three falls to figure out a sequence that worked. All I can say is, it’s all about finding the right edges to balance your way up. Precision is important, I fell off on my second attempt, because I went into the crux sequence too dynamically and blew off my foothold. I went straight up the bolt line after the crux, it was slabby and balancy but not nearly as hard as the move you had to pull to get there. There’s a jug below and slightly to the right of the anchor to clip from, my favorite kind of finish!
    By Gabe Huie
    Aug 15, 2017
    rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

    The route felt like a 11+ especially for the OS, where there some bomber crimps that were crap since everyone just smeared a hurdle of chalk around the wall. I'm just wondering why people are rating this 11b or lower? I felt like Reefer Madness was a little easier than this, since this had a consistent, sustained, crimp face and was only 60 ft high.

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