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Buttress of Cracks - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aqualung T 
Arcy Farcy T 
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 
Bluebeard T 
Bocomaru T 
Buccaneer, The T 
Captain Hook T 
Double Exposure T 
Double Exposure Direct T 
Frustration T 
Ham Sandwich T 
Hernia - Direct Finish T 
Hernia, The T 
Insomnia T 
Pass Time T 
Pirate, The T 
Swashbuckler T 
Sword of Damocles T 
Walk the Plank T 
Winter Solstice T 

Walk the Plank 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: FA: Bob and Yvonne Gaines - 1987 FFA: Darrell Hensel - 1989
Page Views: 1,038
Submitted By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Start on the left leaning flake (5.7) just left of the Captain Hook start. Continue in the shallow flakes (4" piece) to their end, and make a few moves (10b) to obtain the upper crack. Gear protects the crack until it thins down into seams. Two bolts protect climbing up the seams (12a). A small cam may be placed between the bolts. End at the Pirate belay.


Just right of The Pirate.


Bolts, thin gear up to one 4" piece. Small cams useful.

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By C Miller
From: CA
Jul 9, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This seems harder than other 5.12a routes in the area, perhaps some of the tiny edges have flaked off?

Nevertheless, a great pitch with thin and technical moves up high at the bolts.
By Darrell Hensel
Jul 9, 2008

I think the holds are about the same as when the route was put up. I repeated it just recently and didn't find it much different from what it was originally. Grades are subjective at best.
By Howard
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Aug 4, 2015


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