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Walden's Room 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 240', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Cameron Burns, Brian Takei 22 Oct. 1994 FFA- Jon Butler , Cameron Burns Oct. 1995
Page Views: 1,943
Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Oct 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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The crux of P2 (and the climb IMO). You can step ...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The route starts near the left side of the East face of the formation.

P1- Climb a handcrack to a ledge.
P2- Climb a corner and an offwidth to ledges.
P3- Move the belay up and right to below a drilled angle. Climb up the finger crack and continue past drilled angles to the summit. 5.10+


Two sets of cams to a #3 camalot, Stoppers, A bigger piece or two.

Photos of Walden's Room Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This is what happens when footholds break at the t...
This is what happens when footholds break at the t...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top...
View from the top...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2- Fatty!
Pitch 2- Fatty!
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 of Walden's room
P1 of Walden's room
Rock Climbing Photo: View of tower from the approach
View of tower from the approach

Comments on Walden's Room Add Comment
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By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Mar 30, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Descent info:

• With 2 60 meter ropes do one rap from the summit (you can do this part with one rope) to the top of pitch 2. Then one 180’ rap to the ground.
• With one 60meter rope do one rap from the summit to the top of pitch 2. Another rap to the top of Easton's Corner(this is the5.11 left facing corner to the right of the original start). These rap anchors are visible from the ground. Then one 100’ rap to the bottom.
By Dana Prosser
From: Boulder
Mar 31, 2008

Route is best done in 4 pitches. Pitch 3 is a scramble, but necessary to set up your partner for the last pitch. The rock quality deteriorates at the top and I took a fall near last pin when large foothold broke loose. Might be best to aid through this section?? Nice to have #5 and #6 Camalot for P2 Fatty (sl. sandbagged for 5.9).
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 7, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very fun route, and quite mellow for a "tower".

P1 is short, and is a fun 5.9 handcrack with good gear.

P2 is definitely a chimney, with an offwidth move or two to get established. A fat bolt protects the opening move into the chimney - which is the crux of the pitch. From there, plenty of feet on the left wall keep things relatively straightforward for a squeeze chimney.... but still expect a little struggle. I placed a #6 camalot above the bolt (I used it lower on the pitch as well, and then back cleaned it). Beyond that, there was a surprising amount of good gear on the left wall - I think I placed two small offset nuts (both bomber) and a #2 camalot. No need to bring anything bigger than a #6.

P3 is a scramble up and right, but most will want to keep the rope on for one sandy move. I didn't see a drilled angle below the finger crack, but you're on a big ledge and it is easy to build an anchor in the crack.

P4 10+ thin crack to a two bolt ladder. The business is very short (less than 10 feet), and easy to french free if needed. I didn't even try to free the upper pin ladder, the rock was crap. There are only two pins on the ladder, and it is very easy to stand on the lower pin to get the upper pin. No need for any aiding equipment.

Descent: The top anchor of two drilled pins is getting a little funky, but was still solid. We did the descent in 4 single rope raps. Pulling a double rope rap from the top of the second pitch looked like it would suck, hence our motivation to do shorter raps. From the top of P2 you'll rap to another anchor off to the side - you'll see it on the ledge below the chimney when climbing up.

My gear: Nuts (including small), one set TCUs or small cams, 1x0.5 camalot, 1x0.75 camalot, 1x#1 camalot, 2x#2 camalot, 2x#3 camalot, 1x#4 camalot (definitely optional), 1x#6 camalot. Don't bother bringing two big pieces, it is easy to back clean if you need to.
By Sam Lightner, Jr.
From: Lander, WY
May 20, 2009

Josh Gross and I updated the anchors to modern equipment yesterday. You only need one rope for the raps. Our single sixty barely reached from the top of pitch two, but if you don't think you will reach then you can do a final shorter rap from the anchor that is just off pitch two (You can see the ground from there to know if the rope is down).

I agree with all the ANdy has to say above. I would add that when Josh began removing the old anchor he said "I wonder how long...."> His first hit with the hammer removed the first pin. Very little rust was holding it in. The second pin took about 6 times as much effort.
By Eric Odenthal
Nov 9, 2009

Anchors are bomber. P1 great hand crack. P2 fun, sandy... squeeze. getting to the anchor is a bit sketchy. P3, traverse to base of finger crack. P4 good pro, a big reach, moving past the first pin was a funky boulder problem. slapping slopers. cool summit. we rapped 3 times with just one 60m even though we brought a tag. Thanks again Sam and Josh for all that great work. peace.
By Wally
From: Denver
Apr 10, 2012

As usual, the Andy Laakmann beta is right on - thanks Andy!

Sam and Josh - thanks for the updated hardware!

Cool route! Great summit. Put this one on your list!

Pitch four - both crux sections are hard, memorable. One bit of disagreement is the suggestion to aid the bolt ladder - very freeable and reasonable at the grade - if you slip - the bolt is right there. Maybe this section has cleaned up over time.
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 24, 2012

fun stuff. we pulled a small refrigerator off the start of the second pitch. my partner gary posted video on you tube. did not affect the grade but left debris on the belay ledge on top of pitch one and some dirt on the wall at the start of the business. also beware of a loose chunk of dirt up and back left pulling the bulge on top of pitch two. it's ready to go with just a good tug. don't let all this gloom and doom scare you off this one. it's just info. this is a really fun and doable climb. easy for the grade.

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