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Waking Life T 

Waking Life 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jesse Zacher
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: Jesse Zacher on Feb 17, 2015

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Obvious.

Description 

Waking Life is another favorite of mine on the wall. It has steep, technical crack climbing.

The first pitch is the crux. Begin clipping a bolt a bit off the deck and moving into a shallow corner. Move up and work your way up the steep, thin crack as you come to a large bulge. Work your way through, and crank through some tough jams to a rest. Traverse right and up to a belay.

The second pitch is fun, moderate climbing up a wandering crack that is mostly hands. Gain the steep headstone face at the top where you clip a bolt and make a few delicate exit moves to the top.

Location 

This is the far right obvious prow that sticks away from the wall. There is bright colored lichen that glows. This route starts on the far right of the prow up the obvious, thin cracks and out onto the prow's face at the top.

Protection 

Doubles from small to #1, one #2 and #3, QDs, and nuts. There are anchors at the top and atop pitch one.

Do a single rope rap to the top of pitch one, or double rope to the bottom with 70s.


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By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Jun 6, 2016

The second pitch bolted variation is amazing...bullet rock.
What is this? 5.12?
By Matt Lisenby
Oct 16, 2016

The bolted variation left of Waking Life is P2 of Full Nelson (5.12+).

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