REI Community
Tioman Island
Select Route:
Waking Dream T 

Waking Dream 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, 1000', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A2 [details]
FA:  Nick Tomlin and Scotty Nelson, 2000
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,707
Submitted By: David Trippett on Dec 1, 2007

You & This Route
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Dragon's Horns in all their glory.

Description 

From the AAJ Reference:

"In late August, 2000 Nick Tomlin and Scotty Nelson spent 8 days on Pulau Tioman, an island off the eastern coast of Malaysia, making the first ascent of the impressive Bukit Nekek Semekut, one of two peaks on the island’s southern tip known collectively as the “Dragon’s Horns”. Our route, Waking Dream (V 5.9 A2) climbs the prominent 400 meter south face of the jungle spire, and required 4 nights on the wall in portaledges. To the best of our knowledge this was the first ascent of the mountain.

The 10 pitch line required the drilling of 10 rivets and 8 bolts (for belays), in addition to the bolts already in place on pitches 1-4 from our previous attempts (1996 and 1998). The rock is of relatively good quality granite, and our line follows the most obvious weakness up the face. We placed a handful of pins; the route will go clean very easily.

We endured one particularly terrifying lightning storm on the third night; other than that we had excellent weather. Pitch 5 was the crux, where Nick Tomlin drilled 5 rivets to reach a thin crack, and then used aliens, hooks, micro nuts and a very sketchy tricam placement to lead us onto the lower angled upper portion of the wall (pitches 3-5 are vertical to slightly overhanging). Pitches 7-10 were climbed in a summit push on the last day, and involved mostly free climbing interspersed with some aid. Pitch 9 involved spectacular runnout 5.9 face climbing on funky dimples and scoops in a water groove. The top was spectacular, a perfectly flat bonzai garden with stupendous views of the ocean, the island’s interior, and the surrounding peaks. We stacked a cairn on the summit boulder and snapped some photos before rappelling to our portaledge on top of pitch 7 for the night, and then to the ground the next day.

This is probably one of the longest rock climbs in S.E. Asia, and one of the only big walls. The climb has a relatively easy approach, great exposure, and interesting climbing in an exotic locale (the views are great!). Care should be taken by prospective future ascentionists, though: the bolts we placed were not stainless steel, and are likely to rust quickly in the ocean air."


This party (David Trippett) attempted the third ascent overall of this route and managed to free a bolt ladder. This route may go free with a variation or two.

Links:

geocities.com/s1nelson2000/dra...



Location 

South end of Tioman Island.

Protection 

Aid rack, hooks, cams, drill to replace old rivets.


Photos of Waking Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: David Trippett on the 2nd or 3rd(?) pitch of Wakin...
David Trippett on the 2nd or 3rd(?) pitch of Wakin...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Dragons Horns, Tioman Island, Malaysia.
The Dragons Horns, Tioman Island, Malaysia.

Comments on Waking Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Apr 29, 2008

Waking Dream was recently freed in it's entirety by Dave Sharratt. Nice work!

sharrattphoto.com/gallery.asp?...

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About