Wake Up Call
||Trad, Mixed, 5 pitches, 900', Grade IV
|Original: ||M5+ R [details]|
|FA: ||Jason Maki, Noah McKelvin|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Whenever avy hazard doesn't exist|
|Page Views: ||1,191|
|Submitted By: ||Noah McKelvin on Dec 30, 2012|
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This route is fun and worth the adventure. For you to agree, you'll have to be sort of into this adventurous dry tooling thing. The route starts moderate and ends moderate with what we found to be a pretty steep and serious crux pitch with 40 feet of 70 degree moss sticks as a added bonus. Almost all the pitches are a full rope length.
Scramble up the main chimney system on the buttress. It's the next buttress over from "Tasty Talks
" and is two buttresses left of The Ribbon
on what we dubbed as the "21 & Up Buttress". When driving on Camp Bird Road, it looks to have a couple chimney systems that blank out on top. You can scramble up the first 100 feet or so. We stopped and made a belay right after the rock turned to orange choss under a chockstone. This is an early season route. A lot of snow would make it even more dangerous due to a bowl above. Compared to Bird Brain
, I think the crux is more serious and a bit harder then anything on it, but the route as a whole is not as sustained as there is only one cruxy pitch.
P1. Climb the two overhung chockstones and scramble up a gully to a sort of slabby run out traverse. This is really fun climbing with good hooks the whole way. Belay above in sort of a alcove in bad rock. M4.
P2. Continue up right with fun hooks. Easy terrain takes you up where you go left around the corner and stare down the crux. A couple OW moves take you to the most bomber belay on route. There is not much gear on this pitch, but it's the easiest pitch on the route. It's not going to be moderate the whole way.
P3. The money pitch. Go up funky, M5ish terrain with okay gear right above the belay. The gear ends and you swing at 60/70 degree moss for 30 or 40 feet. The runout ends with a good, hand-sized cam. Make sort of a scary mantel and continue up the steep and in spots slightly overhung "crack" if you should call it. I used all the bigger gear at the start, so the climbing was even more run out. This is challenging heady moves with mostly bad gear in bad rock. Make sure your belayer never looks up. Belay at tree. Chossy M5+.
P4. Continue up until the terrain blanks out vertical. Traverse straight right on snow covered slabs with tree trunks as your only pro. Find a tree and belay.
P5. A full rope length was continued on moderate M3 terrain with tree trunks as the only reliable gear.
This is on the next buttress over from Tasty Talks
. Park at the camping spots before the road bends. Cross the river and hike up steep moss to the base of the massive, prominent chimney. It is a cruxy approach. We rappelled down one spot on the way down.
Rap down the trees on the side. We left occasional gear. Pay close attention to your ropes or they'll get stuck easily.
Doubles up to #3. Some KBs and spectres help. Bring your basic, trad mixed rack.
Since we've never heard a name of this wall, we du...
Jason Maki following the crux on the FA of Wake Up...