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Wake and Cake T 

Wake and Bake 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 1,593
Submitted By: Alex Mitchell on Nov 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Higher up on the route

Description 

P1 Climb the thin face on the left face of the large open book. Not always straight forward.

P2 Climb up a black-streak face over an overhang and to the anchors.

Protection 

Draws


Photos of Wake and Bake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxin' it
Cruxin' it

Comments on Wake and Bake Add Comment
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By Alex Mitchell
From: Cincinnati, OH
Nov 11, 2012

Great route! Keeps on you start to finish with two no hands rests thrown in.
By Gunkiemike
Aug 30, 2013

Only climbed P1, and thought the crux was around the second bolt. The moves on the blank upper face aren't that bad if you can see the tiny edges for you feet as you move left. (wear your tight shoes for this)
By Alex Hilshey
From: Hollidaysburg, PA
Jun 19, 2014

Second bolt has worked its way mostly out of the rock.
By christopher adams
Aug 1, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Really, really, really easy for 5.10. At the gunks this would get 5.9-/5.8+
By sara pax
From: western mass, but traveling...
Aug 9, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

this was pretty sweet done as a single pitch to the top. The guidebook says you need some gear for the second pitch, but I didn't find that necessary. I just clipped the 1st anchor long and then made sure not to blow the first clip on pitch two (which is high up through a chossy scramble). If you down climb the last 10-15 feet to the ground (5.4ish), you can get down in a single rap with 70m. Knot the ends!
By Rob Roy Ramey
Jul 27, 2016

There are some nice moves on this climb, however, be warned: the second bolt on this route is bad. You can wiggle the bolt stud with your fingers and the length of threads protruding means there is not much of the business end left in the rock. It is loose because it was drilled into a flake rather than solid rock. Tap the rock around immediately the bolt with a carabiner if you need convincing.

Until this bolt is removed, the hole plugged, and redrilled in solid rock (and likewise, the 3rd bolt, which was poorly drilled at a downward angle), consider bringing thin gear. We used wires and small Totems. The upper bolts seemed okay.

The bolt protecting the crux of "Stake and Cake" is similarly loose, from another poorly drilled hole (likely drilled by the same amateurs). These and other bad bolts in the cliff are in need of replacement.