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Fun steep double overhanging dihedral with a finger crack in the back. Start up making steep moves on jugs and underclings. Continue up the dihedral, making all kinds of cool stemming moves and finding some interesting rests. Crank out the laybacking top section and rest on the ledge. Rest up and make a few more tricky 11-? moves to the anchors.
First ascent was originally on trad gear and later retroed by accident. Also might be a bit soft for the grade.
This is located in the forested area off the main beach. Nice place to catch shade when the rest of Dum's Kitchen and Tonsai wall are in the sun. It is also unaffected by the tide. Shares the first two bolts with Art and Sport. Between Art and Sport and By Way of Deception.
7 Bolts to anchors.
Super fun, FA was done on gear.
Adriane about to hit the finger crack on Wake and ...
By RJ Ryan
From: Cambridge, MA
Mar 11, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
This is a great climb! A fight to the end.
But when we got to the end the anchor was quite a fright. 3-5 ratty threads joined together. Every single one's sheath had worn away in parts. We took a piece of chopped rope and beefed it up but this anchor really needs some love.