REI Community
Lunch Box Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dance of the Spam Patty S 
Lunch Lady Land S 
Waitress in the Sky S 

Waitress in the Sky 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 69'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Cronin (Inspired by The Replacements)
Season: This route will serve you during Spring, Summer and Fall
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: BBQ on Jul 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Get ready to get served! Waitress in the Sky is no...

Description 

One of the underdogs of Big Picture Gully, this stellar climb is often overlooked because of its funky location and the fact that everyone wants to prove they can onsight or redpoint Everything's Big in Texas. DO THIS ROUTE! It has its own special character that can't be found in most Spearfish Canyon routes of this grade.

"Oh sure, a 5.10c that's mostly slab, this should be a cake walk." WRONG! This waitress happens to be a bitch, and if you don't give her the proper respect (and a good tip...of your shoes) the only thing that she'll be handing you is your ass between two slices of rye.

The route starts with a wild set of bouldery moves that will have even the finest of diners wanting the check before desert is served. When the main course comes, better stay on your toes because the slab and arete sections get funky and wears on your arms in ways you can't possibly imagine. The crux is towards the end as a series of thought proking moves begs the question, "how can something that looked so easy from the ground get so hard at the last bolt?"

This is a climb that you can sink your teeth into, even if you can't get your hands and feet to stay where you need them to be.

Location 

The route is on the left-most side of the wall. It is the easiest of the three to notice from the trail since it is has an obvious slab and arete. However, it might be a pain in the butt to get to since it is located up a steep grade which sometimes requires a bit of bushwaking and skree navigation. Don't skip this route, lunch is an essential meal and this is one of the more essential 5.10c climbs one should try before moving onto bigger meals.

Protection 

This route has eight bolts and open shut anchors. Use a short quickdraw at the first bolt to keep your butt off the ground. Stick-clipping is not a must, but a good idea since the start is a bit tricky. The last bolt is in a strange location around the corner of the arete. Bring a longer draw to use at the last bolt to elimate rope drag.


Photos of Waitress in the Sky Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's your tip, use your feet!
Here's your tip, use your feet!

Comments on Waitress in the Sky Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About