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Waiting for the Sun S 
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Waiting for the Sun 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: E. Lund, B. Swee
Page Views: 1,669
Submitted By: Todd Miller on Jun 15, 2009

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Climbing the knob ladder on Waiting for the Sun.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


This route has really fun, positive knobs. Somewhat committing getting to the first bolt - trust your feet on the knobs.

Follow the knobs up the face to a 2 bolt anchor.


This route is located on the small crag known as The Blue Tile Lounge, just above the Mid Wall. Approach via Robin's Ramp and continue climbing past the chains on that route through some bushes to a tree belay. Walk up the slab to the base of the route.


3 bolts plus a green Alien (or red C3 or blue TCU) to protect the start. The bolts are all right where you need them.

Bring a red Alien (or orange TCU) and a green C3 (or blue Alien or purple TCU) to set up a belay at the base.

A good strategy for getting down is to belay the follower from the anchors at the top, then rappel from the anchors all the way down to the chains at the top of Robin's Ramp, then rappel from Robin's Ramp to the ground.

NOTE: We made this rappel with a 70m rope and had rope to spare - haven't tried it with a 60m rope.

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By Todd Miller
From: MT
Jun 15, 2009

NOTE: The lead bolts and anchor bolts on this route are all brand new and bombproof. However, some very old junky webbing was threaded through the new bolts at the anchor. The next person who climbs this should bring:

- A small knife to cut off the old webbing.

- Some fresh webbing and quicklinks (or chains if you're feeling like doing some real community service).

You will be rewarded for your efforts with general appreciation from the climbing community, the 3 carabiners that are currently at the anchor, and a safer rappel for you and your partner.

If anyone climbs this and cleans up the anchor, please post a note here letting us know and I will remove this message. Thanks!
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Jun 15, 2009

This route stays wet for quite some time. There is a moss "carpet" on the slab at the base, so if you commit to climbing above Robin's Ramp and it's wet, the downclimb becomes non-trivial. I had to leave some cord and a biner to get down when I checked it out this spring.
By derekpearson Pearson
Apr 7, 2012

I cleaned the tat off the anchor to Jaded and Waiting for the Sun they both have chain belays.
By Bill Ayre
Jul 21, 2013

Last summer was my first time up to Blue Tile Lounge and the amount of lichen on the route made me think it hadn't been climbed in several years - reading the comments I see I was mistaken. I scrubbed Waiting for the Sun and substantially cleaned French Canadian.

Last weekend Waiting For the Sun is still clean but French Canadian is blooming - literally. On Thursday July 18th I finally red-pointed Waiting. I brought my moccosims (sp?) and committed to the final move to the anchor. Stiff 5.9, but fun and great views from that area.

The weak link at the anchor is that the big chains are held to the hangers by aluminum non-locker 'biners that are showing a little corrosion. My std size quick links I carry won't fit around the fat chain. I'll look for larger quick links that will fit.
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 23, 2013

Oh yeah I forgot to go back up and put links on the chains. Thanks Bill for cleaning those routes.

That's a great spot. We camped up at the lounge when Eric Brent and me put up the routes. Nice hangout .

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