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Wailing Wall 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,135
Submitted By: saxfiend on Sep 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (134)
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second part of climb, this may look hard but the h...


A real gem for the grade, Wailing Wall may bring back memories of the Gunks if you've ever led High E. The amazing holds and great protection on the steep face are matched only by the exposure.

Starting at the left end of the Amphitheatre, either begin by climbing a chimney right of the arete, or (more exciting) climb the nice arete itself. Continue up level with the base of a roof, then move left onto the exposed face and straight up through a notch to the trees.


Starts just right of the arete at the left end of the Amphitheatre. To rappel, scramble up and over from the topout ledge to a gully; move carefully down the gully to rap from fixed gear.


Mostly medium gear; tricams are very useful. Build a gear anchor and/or sling trees.

Photos of Wailing Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Wailing wall
BETA PHOTO: Wailing wall
Rock Climbing Photo: chilling out after we broke the climb into two pit...
chilling out after we broke the climb into two pit...
Rock Climbing Photo: climbing is fun
climbing is fun
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of wailing wall.  A fun little grovel to...
BETA PHOTO: The start of wailing wall. A fun little grovel to...
Rock Climbing Photo: start right of the crack and reverse into it  run ...
start right of the crack and reverse into it run ...
Rock Climbing Photo: makes a great multi pitch awsome for getting pract...
makes a great multi pitch awsome for getting pract...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Wailing Wall in mid november
Climbing Wailing Wall in mid november
Rock Climbing Photo: The start to Wailing Wall.
BETA PHOTO: The start to Wailing Wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: July 17th, 2011 First lead at Moores
July 17th, 2011 First lead at Moores
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming around the roof
BETA PHOTO: Coming around the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from optional 2nd belay.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from optional 2nd belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Annibali on the super steep finishing moves of...
Ben Annibali on the super steep finishing moves of...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wailing Wall start
Wailing Wall start
Rock Climbing Photo: Super fun rappel. Great exposure! You must have TW...
BETA PHOTO: Super fun rappel. Great exposure! You must have TW...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pretty good view of the Wailing Wall. Climber: Ale...
BETA PHOTO: Pretty good view of the Wailing Wall. Climber: Ale...

Comments on Wailing Wall Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 10, 2017
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Sep 4, 2007

This is a fantastic climb; the exposure is almost as good as Zoo View, and you can't believe how nice the holds and pro are on the face section. Starting on the arete instead of the chimney adds to the fun.
By nbrown
From: western NC
Nov 8, 2007

To the best of my knowledge, a couple guys from the Raleigh area used to climb this route all the time before anyone else ever claimed an ascent. Cannot remember their last names, but they called themselves "Lewis and Clark". It's likely that they did the FA.
By Mike Flanagan
From: Redlands, CA
Oct 26, 2008

classic moderate
By vanishing spy
Feb 27, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Sigh,My first Trad lead. Super awesome route and worth getting on no matter how hard you climb.
By gavin hermann
Jul 20, 2011

We climbed this last week its an awesome climb. A lot of exposure and an awesome climb, a lot of fun. Just watch out for the rope drag.
By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
Nov 8, 2011

The exposure and unique rock on the billboard face are truly classic. Sling your pro and try not to place gear to your right to ease drag before turning the corner. If you only have a single 60, you can scramble right to rap from the Quaker State/Golden Earring anchors.
By Robert Hutchins
Dec 21, 2011

No need to go all the way to the Quaker State anchor to rap off if you only have a single 60m rope. After toping out, just head a back and a little to the right. Drop down into the natural recess and you will find an anchor that will take you back to within about 15' of start of the climb.
By Tim Fisher
Jan 21, 2012

I removed an old angle pin from this route in 1980. It was probably first climbed in the early 70s or earlier.
By Will Copeland
From: Driggs
Mar 16, 2012

starting the first 15-20 feet on the other side of the arete bumps this one up a notch!
By S. Fischer
Apr 2, 2012

Great climb. The crux is certainly down low at the start. I made a gear anchor on a small ledge after moving left, just below the face. Great exposure and great holds everywhere.

I tried using the rings that Robert Hutchins mentions and sadly my 60m did not make it to the bottom even with rope stretch. Be sure to tie knots in the ends if you try it.
By Robert Hutchins
Apr 3, 2012

Sorry to hear that S.Fischer. You might want to check the length
of your rope. It's a good thing that you didn't try the Q.State anchor with the rope, as it sounds like it wouldn't have been close to reaching. The only other possible way I can think of that wouldn't leave you with rope on the ground would be if the rope was dropped significantly cliff-left in the notch and left you down-hill a little bit.
May 14, 2012

I'm wondering if anyone has tried a variation finish that kicks the grade up a few grades. The finish I've done goes up the L shape weakness seen on the right side here in this photo. It is a lot of fun but would recommend doing the climb in 2 pitches due to the rope drag created when clearing the lip. Similar difficulty to Raise Hell IMO.
By nbrown
From: western NC
May 14, 2012


Who knows when that thing was first done... I did that finish myself a few years back (maybe 10 or so), and remember it feeling about 10a, but I could be wrong as my memory is a bit fuzzy.
By Vince Buffalini
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jan 1, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A classic. turn the corner at the halfway point onto the beautiful exposed face with horizontals reminiscent of the gunks
By Benandstuff
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Nov 1, 2015

A great line with great exposure, and plentiful protection. It stays on grade for almost the entire climb, only backing off as you approach the top. The rock on the upper face is really pretty, too.

I looked for the rap anchors Robert Hutchins mentioned, but I did not find them. I imagine they have been worn down and/or cut in the intervening years since his post.

EDIT: I have since found the rap anchors. Once you top out, go straight back and drop into a small ravine. Take a right, down the ravine, and around some trees/shrubs, to a lower level of the ravine. From here, the anchor is about 4 nuts in a horizontal crack 10 feet up on the left wall, over the edge.
By Robert Hutchins
Feb 5, 2016

The anchor consists of at least three passive pieces on stainless steel cable, and is up on the wall above a notch. It was still there late Fall when I climbed it last. The anchor is not located where you top out. You have to step cliff right over the notch where you top-out and scramble back cliff-right over the little "hill" of rock and down the short slab. To locate it, just think of where the anchor would need to be to leave you 15'-25' uphill of the start of the climb when you rap. I'm guessing people just don't think to look down the slab to locate it.
By smurray47
Apr 30, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

By far the best 5.6 at Moore's. Great climb to get on your first time in the area, or as a warm-up your 20th visit. Eats up gear and is very safe. Crux is probably the start, and you'll be out of sight for the finish, so make sure your second is going to push through it if they're not a climber. Belay from the top, descend either via the somewhat questionable Wailing Wall anchors, or scramble over to the Golden Earring anchors which inspire a little more confidence.
By Russ Keane
Jun 19, 2016

This is a ridiculously fun rock climb. Beyond classic -- and to go at 5.6.... wow... thank you Moore's. The aesthetic beauty and quality of the rock, is simply something to behold on this dreamy out of this world line. You will not even be aware of anything else of life other than being on the sharp end on this gem!.
By .
From: Asheville NC
Jun 18, 2017

Wasp building nest 20 ft up as you transition onto left side from crack. Was just messing around and noticed 2 very very loose microwave sized blocks to the right of p2 mid way up. Super dangerous!
By Jordan G
Sep 10, 2017

This route eats gear and has great holds. Getting started and transitioning to the face out of the chimney is the crux, the rest is all cruiser climbing. Round the corner onto the billboard face and head for the notch following huge holds and lots of gear. The 10a roof finish out right looks pretty awesome. Watch for loose blocks while you top out, belay your second, then scramble up a few feet and head climber's right down into a small gully to find a fixed nut rap anchor. 70m is plenty of rope, and most of this rappel is free hanging.

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