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Wailing Sax Wall
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Wailing Sax 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dimitri Barton, January 1988
Page Views: 539
Submitted By: Locker on Sep 16, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Wailing Sax Wall - West Face

Description 

Climb discontinuous cracks to a small roof (thins a bit above the roof. Fun!) to a single bolt. Beyond that it eases up considerably. Though the route is quite short, it has some pretty cool moves and is worth a shot when in the area.

Protection 

Small to medium cams, nuts. One bolt. Pro for anchors. Rap anchors to climbers left up and over the bulge (Easy to get to).


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By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 6, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Wailing Sax Wall is a nice little wall to TR on to round out a day if you are staying at Sheeps Pass CG. Not a good choice if you aren't camping there.
By Justin Slagle
From: Palm Desert, CA
Sep 15, 2012

Its all easy to top rope true, but they are fun leads too. I've never been fortunate enough to book a campsite in Sheeps Pass CG, but i've climbed here a few times. Good shade in the morning in the warmer times, and the moderates are fun. The 10's and 11's at the end of the wall are long for josh as well. Good times.
By verticalbound
Apr 3, 2013

Fun lead not to hard and pro is all there. Nice thoughtful route.
By Dan Evans
From: N Scottsdale, AZ
Dec 6, 2015

Definitely not 3 stars. .5 cam in the small pod and a small nut 5" above that will protect the roof and moves to follow before reaching the bolt. Found the crux of this climb to be just as difficult as the crux on the Maiden Voyage (10a). That been said, the business is right at the bolt so it is a safe lead with a clean vertical fall if you blow it.

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