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Stone Mountain South Face
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Anchor Rode T 
Another Alternative T 
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Blood On The Tracks T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Direct Start to Arch T 
Dirty Crack T 
Discipline, The S 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Dream On T 
Dream Waves T 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Impossible Dream T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
P.F. Flyers T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Purring, The T 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Sermon, The T 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Taken For Granite T 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
Wahoo Start T 
White Way Direct T 
WOSL T 
Yardarm T 
Zoo Love T 
Unsorted Routes:

Wahoo Start 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 285
Submitted By: Johnny O on Sep 4, 2014

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Description 

This route starts with Peer Pressure and splits off just past the first bolt. The bolt is easily seen from the ground and is located on top of a small, left-facing corner with big jugs. There are multiple options for getting started up to the corner, all of fairly equal difficulty, but there is a downward angling dike leading up to the corner that works best. The crack in the corner is too shallow for most gear placements so don't bother. A few minor moves will get you to two very large jugs stacked on top of each other that eliminate the need for footholds, or protection. The bolt is just above the jugs. This is where the climb gets interesting. Step out to the right on a small but obvious foothold, preferably with the left foot. Pinch a nice crystal just above you with the left hand and reach way out to the right for another nice crystal that will allow you to stand on the foothold. Smear your right foot over a pea sized crystal and crimp your way up, placing your left foot on the crystal that you originally had your right hand on. If you can pull it off without slipping, the climb now turns easy. Now, head to the top of a big flake on the right with small pines growing out of it. Don't bother with cams, the climbing is easy and there is a bolt on the wall just above the flake. From the right side of the flake make a fairly easy traverse over to the belay rings for Dream Waves/Dixie Crystals. At about the midpoint of the traverse it is necessary to step down several feet, however, the friction is great and there are several good holds. This route is an alternate start for routes using the previously mentioned belay station. The two bolts provide protection just where it is needed and no additional pro is needed unless you just feel safer with it. An interesting traverse all the way to the Tree Ledge can also be made from the belay rings.

Location 

Up and left from the start of Dixie Crystals. Start the same as Peer Pressure.

Protection 

Two bolts and the belay rings on the first pitch of Dixie Crystals/Dream Waves. Some possibilities for additional pro.


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