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Industrial Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Assembly Line S 
Blast Furnace S 
Broken S 
Coal as Ice T 
Conveyor Belt S 
Hidden Agenda S 
Hoffa Finger S,TR 
Ignominious Demise S 
Loading Dock S,TR 
Maid In America S,TR 
Union Dues S 
Wage Slave S 
White Collar Redneck S,TR 

Wage Slave 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Steve Nichol and Jim Reynolds, 1994
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Jeremy Noring on Jul 27, 2014

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start to the left of Ignominious Demise. Follows a left leaning bolt line that straightens after the third bolt. Difficult traversing and bouldery sequences abound in the lower portion of the route; heady slab awaits above.

Protection 

8 bolts to anchors.

The Ruckman guide does not give this route an R, but it should. There's a very long runout to a difficult clip on the upper headwall (just above the roof)--if you're on the short side, it is dangerous. Having some small cams for the middle roof will alleviate the R rating.


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By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 27, 2014

I'd strongly recommend a few cams for the middle roof. Otherwise, the upper clip is completely terrifying, and especially so if you're shorter.
By wasatch boy
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 4, 2014

I would add that this route is just past the large roof. An additional cam (or two) is highly recommended. I placed a BD #0.4 and a Metolius #2 in the slight overhanging blocky section before the slab. Long slings (or better yet, runners) would have reduced the rope drag for slab climbing above. Tricky crux sequence took me a few burns to get worked out.

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