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The Precipice aka The South Wall
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Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 
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Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 
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Wafer Step -(Central Slab) 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
Page Views: 9,096
Submitted By: T. Moon on Jun 9, 2007

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Breanna (10 years old) on Wafer Step.

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>


A great 5.5 climb in a very scenic location. Scramble to the top of a detached block. Jam the steep, vertical crack to a stance. From here the angle lays back and you follow the beautiful left arching crack until it joins a vertical crack (the top of Recollections of Pacifica). Belay from the two bolt anchor. Rappel with one rope.


Follow the main trail from the road. You'll come to a wall. Traverse left a short distance to the end of the wall and then straight up talus until you reach the South Wall (about 100 feet). Go right and them up some very cool old stone stairs. Continue on until you see the large detached block and two cracks. Wafer Step is the furthest right crack.

[NOTE: I have added the following to all "Central Slabs" climbs, but the submitter's description is excellent! "This climb is on the Central Slabs; after passing the end of the Lower Wall, go up the talus and Staircase and continue right." R Hall ME Admin]


Eats up finger & hand sized gear.

Photos of Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On Wafer Step - "Pacifica" to the left
BETA PHOTO: On Wafer Step - "Pacifica" to the left
Rock Climbing Photo: Bit of a stretch for the height challenged...Jen l...
Bit of a stretch for the height challenged...Jen l...
Rock Climbing Photo: The last of the fun on Wafer Step
The last of the fun on Wafer Step
Rock Climbing Photo: Beautiful view at the top
Beautiful view at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: A windy lead up wafer step
A windy lead up wafer step
Rock Climbing Photo: Wafer step's arching goodness
Wafer step's arching goodness
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy nearing the end of Wafer Step.
Andy nearing the end of Wafer Step.
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris cruising the arching crack on Wafer Step, 5....
Chris cruising the arching crack on Wafer Step, 5....

Comments on Wafer Step -(Central Slab) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anthony Codega
Aug 5, 2010

You'll want a number 5 stopper to protect the thin crack at the top! And a long runner to make sure it doesn't pop out....
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Oct 7, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Should be nominated for most wonderful 5.5 on the planet. If it were a thousand feet long, I'd drive ten hours in an unregistered '78 Chevette with bald tires and a milk crate for a driver's seat just to do it.
By jim.dangle
Nov 27, 2011

Fun climb with a great view. As another commenter said you definitely want your smallest gear to protect the thin crack at the top.

By Julia Lee
From: Royal Oaks, MI
Jul 9, 2013

Definitely would agree with needing micro-nuts at the top. I'm 5'2" so I had a little difficulty getting to the good hold at the top. A little spicy for short people.
By mikejohnson1 Johnson
From: Essex Junction, VT
Jul 13, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Really great climb. Just a note, I was somewhat worried that this was affected by the Perigrine falcon closure but as of yesterday it is not. Also, the closure is clearly marked with string and a sign.

By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
May 27, 2015

crazy fun. I am very short, didn't have any issue finishing the climb.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Aug 24, 2015

SO FUN! Wow, I had a blast on this over the weekend. As for the previous comments about gear, I was able to get two number 4 BD nuts in. If I recall correctly those are the smallest regular BD nuts so I would say no micro-nuts needed if you spend some time to protect the crux.
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Yup...small wires needed for the top move. Try opposing them, with one below the keep the upper "money" nut in place.

Best thing about this climb is you can then TR "Pacifica" FANTASTIC climb!!!

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