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Wafer of Woe 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: ForrestKaye on Sep 3, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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P1 Starts just left(~30 ft) of the mountaineers route. Basicaly an approach pitch, 30m or so of easy climbing ~5.6 to ledge with a small tree.

Ideally move the belay to the left 20 ft directly under the route.

P2. ~40m of consistent 5.10 climbing. The first half is on a thin flake that feels like it could snap off at any moment. Gear that could hold and not break the flake is sparse but bolts protect through the first half, though not nearly as often as you'd like given that they are a bit rusty (but solid looking). 2nd half inspires confidence as the crack and gear gear gets solid.

The route starts with a bolt you can clip from a ledge. Lieback, jam, pinch and smear any way you can that won't break off the wafer flake. (Testing gear by pulling on a cam placed in the flake, I could feel he flake about expando. placement not recommended)

Puts you at the top of pitch 2 for the mountaineers route.


Just left of gullies that start the mountaineers route.


4 maybe 5 bolts to start first half. Standard rack.

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