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Cactus Cliff
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Wadsworth Boulevard 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1999
Page Views: 4,172
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Nov 11, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (249)
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Laura climbing up the first overhang of Wadsworth.

Description 

Start just right of Hot .. Beach, and climb through two small roofs on amazing features. This is a very fun laybacking outing, highly recommended. It is well-protected at the crux but very runout above near the anchor on easy terrain.

Protection 

11 bolts to a two-bolt anchor with chains. There are sizeable runouts (20 feet) on 5.8 terrain at the top.


Photos of Wadsworth Boulevard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cactus Cliff - Left (2).  Errata: Route 31 is Tits...
BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Left (2). Errata: Route 31 is Tits...
Rock Climbing Photo: In the slightly runout climbing of the upper part ...
In the slightly runout climbing of the upper part ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling around the crux roof. Photo by Paul Rezuch...
Pulling around the crux roof. Photo by Paul Rezuch...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wadsworth Blvd., May 2008.
Wadsworth Blvd., May 2008.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jimmy F. stylin' the second roof, Wadsworth Blvd.
Jimmy F. stylin' the second roof, Wadsworth Blvd.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is just before the first roof.
This is just before the first roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is just below the second roof, be sure to str...
This is just below the second roof, be sure to str...
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian doing some nice stemming before the roof on ...
Brian doing some nice stemming before the roof on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Follow that red line painted on the rock, how can ...
BETA PHOTO: Follow that red line painted on the rock, how can ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the main roof on Wadsworh Blvd, Shelf Road...
Pulling the main roof on Wadsworh Blvd, Shelf Road...

Comments on Wadsworth Boulevard Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 8, 2016
By Barrett Cooper
Jun 14, 2002

Runouts on the top were not as bad as I expected. It may be they added a bolt or two or that it just seems tougher after pulling the two ledges.
By Brad Short
From: Saudia Aurora, CO
Nov 3, 2003

The last couple of bolts are a little runout compared to the closely-spaced bolts near the two lower roofs, but the climbing is fairly easy. However, these last bolts can be supplemented with finger-sized cams.
By Gent Grush
Apr 16, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Great route for any who are looking to improve there technique. the two roofs require good technique!! tons of fun for anyone compitent at the grade!! Enjoy!!
By Russell Oakley
Apr 16, 2005

Tons of fun, short cruxes, lots of rests. This has to be the easiest 10c at Shelf, considering I got up it no problem...

I thought Blackman's Burden, Christmas Tree, and Politically Incorrect were all way harder.

Good luck getting on it on a weekend.
By Clint Ballard
From: Greeley, CO
Nov 27, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The guidebook calls Wadsworth 10b.
By 303scott
Mar 4, 2010

There is quite a bit of loose rock on this route. I counted 4 loose blocks with Xs on them, which included the most obvious clipping holds for the bolt at the end of the runout section. Use caution, it would be a long ride....
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
Nov 21, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Very beta-intense and cool crux moves.

My math might be a little fuzzy, but not sure how an 80 ft. route with 11 bolts is 'runout.' Also, you can get up and down this with a 50m no problem.
By Yenni
From: Louisville, KY
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Make sure to flip your rope out of the crack between the 8th and 9th bolts! Our rope got stuck there.
By Garrett R.
From: Colorado
Mar 12, 2013

Overchalked and polished... even by Shelf standards. Still a good climb, but it's taking a beating.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Carbondale
Dec 2, 2013

A ton of fun! The roofs aren't too bad at all and is very well-protected on the lower half. As mentioned, the runouts on top follow considerably easier terrain (5.7/8), so don't worry. A must do.
By JBug
Jan 26, 2016

Great, diverse climb. Tricky spot early on, just keep moving.
By Zak.M
Feb 8, 2016

Maybe I was having an off day, but I didn't feel this was all that great of a climb. The bottom roof is more awkward than interesting, though the second roof does have cool movement. Past that the bolts space out and climbing gets easier. It wouldn't have been an issue if it didn't seem like every other hold was lose or had an "X" on it.