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Wackford Squeers T 

Wackford Squeers 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Phillip Lloyd and Paul Pritchard
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: John Gassel on Jan 12, 2017

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Alissa on the start of the route. The route goes ...

Description 

A really fun overhanging finger crack route. When you look at the wall, it's the sort of feature that captures your attention. It looks like it should be tougher than it is. There are some pretty good jams and locks throughout.

The crux is probably the roof section, but it's no gimme above that either so don't think you're home free if you get past it.

The gear is G the whole way so don't hesitate to get on this.

There's an anchor in the alcove above to rap from. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground.

Location 

Start at a crack about 15 left of a left facing corner beneath the obvious overhanging finger crack.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2". Probably want doubles up to 1", finger sized pieces especially useful.


Photos of Wackford Squeers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter just above the roof crux on Wackford Squeers...
Peter just above the roof crux on Wackford Squeers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Hoang getting into the roof crux section.
Peter Hoang getting into the roof crux section.

Comments on Wackford Squeers Add Comment
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By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Jan 12, 2017

The anchor consists of a good nut and a good piton. I just cleaned out all the old slings and added a new (green) piece of webbing and equalized it between the two pieces (January 2017). There should be two biners there for the rap as well.

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