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The West End
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W4 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Bradley White and Ted Hammond, 1982 or 3
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 289
Submitted By: bradley white on Jul 22, 2009

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Description 

Climb to crescent moon finger crack (5-8-) that was pinned. Above the crack go to arch and follow it left to gain (5-7) large platform belay ledge. Go up switch backing up outside corner face. Do some trickery mantling moves through a solid block face and exit left onto another platform belay. Climb up to another platform and climb the pine tree on the right fifteen ft. enabling you to step off tree past a non climbable ceiling. while the tree sways back and forth friction (5-6) immediately onto the roof slab above this ceiling and boogie up sustained friction slab to belay on tree ledges. Climb ledges easy friction separated by trees ledges to summit. Much loose rock was removed out of the arch on the first ascent.

Location 

This climb begin 50+ feet right of the giant dike. Easiest to get to by heading for the start of the nose or beak buttress and traverse west on wooded ledges. Landmark is the crescent crack. Other direst approaches are a bit dangerous up dirt channels.

Protection 

trad rack and a couple of fixed pins. Walk off.


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By Tom Bowker
From: somewhere in the USA
Apr 27, 2010

Great adventure! I remember doing the tree pitch on a windy day! Crazy! That was 20 years ago. The tree may be a bit stouter now.