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W. Face of Quadrant's So. Peak ("Cross-Hall")  

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A1 PG13 [details]
FA: Mary-Jane Cross & Bob Hall Aug 1977
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Apr 22, 2016

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Mary-Jane Cross on the "Cross-Hall", Sou...

Description 

Route#464 in "Selkirks North" by David P Jones

At the time (1977) this route was "incomplete" as it traversed right to the standard South Ridge of So. Quadrant, rather than finishing directly up the steep headwall.

It looks as if Atkins, Jones, & Seagram tackled this headwall in their 2003 route (#470) "Joie's Only" (5.10)

Approach as for the standard (South Ridge) route but veer to the left to the base of the South Face.
START: Up a 15ft wide depression that is about 50 ft right of the lowest point of the face.
Climb up the depression, belay on the left. (140 ft)
Continue up to a large block forming a cave. (125 ft)
Climb up the chickenheads for 30-40 ft, then step left to a crack. Belay in the crack about 20 ft higher.
Continue in the crack 15-20 ft, then step left again to a thinner crack, up this (A-1) to a belay at the top of a flake.
[ Today's longer ropes will reduce # of pitches]

At this point the FA party traversed right for a rope length, then continued right, and up, to join the regular south ridge route.

In 2003 Atkins, Jones, & Seagram climbed a different line (5.10) slightly to the right of the "Cross-Hall", then crossed our traverse-line and continued up the headwall "in a series of cracks and corners directly to the summit (5.8+)

Jones shows two other routes on this face to the left of the "Cross-Hall", plus many other routes further left on the West Face of the Main Peak of Quadrant.

Protection 

Standard Rack


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