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Vulture Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,406
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 18, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


A relatively fun and varied wide crack.

Start as for Right Parallel Space, but stay right in the slot and head for the shallow, hanging chimney. Employ chimney and offwidth technique for about 20' feet until stemming is possible; this crux section is well protected using the hand and finger crack at the back of the wide crack. Stem for about twenty feet into an alcove where you trend left, passing an optional, uninspiring anchor and reach a low angle wide crack. This crack has plentiful face holds on its left side and lasts for about 25'; it would probably take a 4.5 Camalot which we did not have. When this last wide crack ends, face climb straight up to chain anchors at the top of the buttress; somewhere in this stretch it is nice to have a couple of cams 1" and smaller. Rope drag can be a problem if doing this as one pitch so sling accordingly.

Rappel as for Middle Parallel Space -- two raps the first about 40', the second _ 100'.


Nuts to 4.5 Camalot, slings

Comments on Vulture Direct Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Jul 26, 2004

Maybe it was a high-gravity day, but this is possibly the hardest ".10a" I've ever climbed. Anyone else feel this way?
By Craig Scariot
Aug 22, 2004

Rob, I agree completely
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Apr 21, 2005

I also agree - very hard for the grade. And be careful of all the bat shit.
By chris parks
Jul 14, 2005

Did this climb a few weeks ago. There is a raptor [nest] equiped with raptors at the top of this thing. Probably should avoid this climb for awhile. I attempted leading this thing and fell out just after the squeeze section. Also couldnt get this thing when following so I would agree this is a hard 10a,
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jun 18, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I didn't think this was to bad, just climb the chimney left side in and start stemming as soon as possible when you get to the hand crack.
By Brian Weinstein
Jul 27, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A demanding and physical route that is so typical of Vedauwoo, this pitch is earned...especially when you're face is in loads of guano.
By Mike D
From: Fort Collins, CO
Dec 13, 2009

I've been wanting to get on this climb for a long whlie now but haven't because of all the bat shit. It looks great, but with so many other great climbs near-by it just is not worth it. If anyone has a gas powered pressure washer with a long hose, let me know if I can borrow it (only joking...well...errr...maybe!!)
By B.S. Luther
From: Yorba Linda, CA
Jul 2, 2015

I agree with the previous posters.. bloody stout.

Also, I think the 2004 guidebook states to go right when the crack ends, I didn't go far that way as it involved slab moves on a sheet of bird feces, but going left worked well.

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