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Anteater - East
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Vulture Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 744
Submitted By: grk10vq on Aug 24, 2010

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Vulture Crack

Description 

Worthy of a quick spin, the Vulture Crack will deliver entertainment. Solid gear, an aesthetic line, and a rewarding crux make this a good option on a crowded day. Plan on devoting time to this one.

Rack up and belay from the ground then scramble up the slab to reach the start. Begin with a solid hand crack that leads up and into the "vultures den". Crawl out of this trap and forge on to a small, sloping ledge at the base of a dihedral. Follow an excellent crack up for 20 feet to the routes end. Build an anchor.

To descend walk off to the west or north using the anchors of Scream Cheese or Fly Boy to rap.

Location 

Vulture Crack is the obvious and most prominent crack/dihedral in the middle of the face on the east side of the Anteater.

Protection 

Single set of cams from 1/2" to 3", a few draws and slings. You may find an extra 2" cam handy to have.


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By Alec LaLonde
Oct 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A rare afternoon-shade moderate crack line at the City. Fun way to get to the top; watch out for the copious poo piles in the bottom chimney though. The Bingham guide notes a bolted anchor on the 5.10 to the right -- we never found it and opted to rap off the other side.

Probably more like 160' from below the slabs, or 100' from the ledge.

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