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Vulcans Don't Lie 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Season: affected by closures
Page Views: 1,320
Submitted By: Clint Locks on Aug 15, 2006

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Tony Bubb on pitch 3 of Perversion, showing the &q...

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  • Description 

    "Vulcans Don't Lie" is truly more of a variation of Mickey Mouse Wall's classic 5.9 "Perversion" than a route in itself but, since it is a named climb in Rossiter's guide, I thought I'd add it to the site. Though Rossiter gave it a 10b, I found it to be short enough and positive enough to place it at .10a. I hope that's not obnoxious. Most of the info one would need for "Vulcans" can be found on the "Perversion" or "Captain Beyond" pages. Have fun!


    "Vulcans" is the roof located directly above pitch 3 of "Perversion", and can be gracefully substituted for the final 5.6 section of that pitch. Rap from the saddle from a veritable rat's nest of webbing. 2 more raps will get you to your packs.


    The protection is reasonably good on this pitch, though there is a large very loose block in the middle of the roof in which pro (esp. a cam) would more than likely rip. Careful!

    Comments on Vulcans Don't Lie Add Comment
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    By Gregger Man
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Oct 11, 2016

    Did a link-up of P1-3 of Captain Beyond with a finish on Perversion and Vulcans Don't Lie. My partner got the rope stuck behind the flake a couple body lengths above the climber in this photo (the detached green one, not the upper brown one). It stuck solidly while he was at the crux of VDL. I had him anchor into three pieces, and I rope-soloed the pitch on clove hitches to get up to the flake and build a belay there. Placing a nut at the top of that flake would probably keep that from happening.

    Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 - Layback city!
    Pitch 3 - Layback city!
    By Ralph Swansen
    From: Denver CO
    Oct 30, 2016
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Excellent way to finish Perversion.

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