Vulcans Don't Lie
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Tony Bubb on pitch 3 of Perversion, showing the &q...
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"Vulcans Don't Lie" is truly more of a variation of Mickey Mouse Wall's classic 5.9 "Perversion
" than a route in itself but, since it is a named climb in Rossiter's guide, I thought I'd add it to the site. Though Rossiter gave it a 10b, I found it to be short enough and positive enough to place it at .10a. I hope that's not obnoxious. Most of the info one would need for "Vulcans" can be found on the "Perversion
" or "Captain Beyond
" pages. Have fun!
"Vulcans" is the roof located directly above pitch 3 of "Perversion
", and can be gracefully substituted for the final 5.6 section of that pitch. Rap from the saddle from a veritable rat's nest of webbing. 2 more raps will get you to your packs.
The protection is reasonably good on this pitch, though there is a large very loose block in the middle of the roof in which pro (esp. a cam) would more than likely rip. Careful!
By Gregger Man
Oct 11, 2016
Did a link-up of P1-3 of Captain Beyond with a finish on Perversion and Vulcans Don't Lie. My partner got the rope stuck behind the flake a couple body lengths above the climber in this photo (the detached green one, not the upper brown one). It stuck solidly while he was at the crux of VDL. I had him anchor into three pieces, and I rope-soloed the pitch on clove hitches to get up to the flake and build a belay there. Placing a nut at the top of that flake would probably keep that from happening.
By Ralph Swansen
From: Denver CO
Oct 30, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Excellent way to finish Perversion.