|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Matt Juth on Jun 10, 2004|
|Comments on Vrain Dead||Add Comment|
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By Ben Burnett
Feb 18, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
There is also a second, short pitch. Step right from the belay and go up a little overhang. Go up another 10 ft, hand traverse left and go up a small roof on big holds (~5.6). 40 ft in all to another 2 bolt rap anchor (or you could just skip the middle belay). A 70 meter rope got us from the top to the bottom with only a little rope to spare on rappel.
The first pitch is reachy and probably harder than 5.8 if you aren't tall.
The first pitch seemed a little spooky on lead (I haven't lead much trad slab), but the second was more comfortable to me - like the Eldo climbing I'm used to.
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|I thought the crux of this this was harder than Crooked Cross. The second pitch is short but fun and worthwhile if already there.|
By George Bracksieck
Jun 8, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I think this is at least 5.10. I'm ~5'8" and could have reached a key hold and some key fingerlocks from other locks in the slanting crack if I had at least another 5" of reach. I was forced to make difficult, awkward cranks off of poor fingertip positions with no feet.
About an hour before, I toproped Think Tank (11a) at the Vrain Trust, on the tier above. The Vrain Dead crux is a move similar to the Think Tank crux – a LONG reach off of a positive finger lock to a prominent rounded hold up on the right AND eventually standing up on that hold with your right foot. The crux sequence of each route also felt the same in difficulty. Said prominent, rounded hold is the only real hold to be found to the right, along the slanting crack of Vrain Dead.