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Cretaceous area
Routes Sorted
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Firewall (aka: Flying Buttress), The T 
Soul's Awakening (half) T 
VPN Crack T 
Wind of the Valley T 

VPN Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brandon Gottung and Adam Pecan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 89
Submitted By: Brandon Gottung on Dec 16, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Adam following the FFA. Ryan is at the anchor for ...

Description 

VPN Crack is a very nice handcrack, but it doesn't compare to the glory of the The Firewall yet shares its bushy start. The three stars apply only to the VPN Crack, the approach may detract from the quality, you decide. For climbers looking to climb the classic 5.11+ second pitch of The Firewell, this makes a great warm-up, linking up well.

Climb up the vines and chimney, weaving under the tree. There is a good ledge at the base of the crack if you want to belay there, but it's easy to link. The VPN Crack is mostly perfect hands with narrower and wider sections keeping it interesting. At the top, run it out through the triple cracks.

From the base of the vine-chimney, this pitch is almost 40 meters, so be sure to be careful on the descent. There's a couple options: There is often a fixed line on P1 of The Firewall that you can transfer onto and rappel from. It is also possible to downclimb that last bit to the ground, just take care. If you want to climb The Firewall, lower back to the ledge in the chimney, then climb up to the belay for The Firewall P2. This is an efficient and fun way to climb P2 of Firewall. Otherwise, do a second rap from the tree.

Location 

Same start as The Firewall. The staging area for these climbs is steep and loose.

Protection 

One .5, double set from .75 to #3. Optional extra hand-sized pieces. A #4 is great for the top.


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