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Voyager One 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Pawel Szafruga
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 766
Submitted By: Pawel Szafruga on Jul 15, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Pawel using the worse right hand pinch from the pr...


The longest pitch on the wall. Climb Power of Silence until the second resting pod and then trend slightly left to the anchors of Vice Grip. There is a new bolt up and left from the pod that eliminates the need for long slings and minimizes rope drag. Stopping at the first anchors is about mid 5.12 (Power of Vice), and is not nearly as enjoyable as doing the full Power of Silence.

From the anchors of Vice Grip the best part of the pitch starts. Continuous bouldering for three bolts lands you at an okay stance to regroup before embarking into the final section of thin face climbing. Cool holds, memorable movement, a little spice and even a finishing mantle round off this expedition.


Start on Power of Silence.


17 bolts to top anchors. There are 4 bolts between Vice Grip and top anchors.

70 meter rope recommended. A 60 meter rope will NOT get you down, although it is possible to stop at the Vice Grip anchors and lower twice.

Photos of Voyager One Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pawel using a heinous sloper pinch on the last har...
Pawel using a heinous sloper pinch on the last har...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pawel reaching from a bad left hand pinch to a wor...
Pawel reaching from a bad left hand pinch to a wor...

Comments on Voyager One Add Comment
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By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 5, 2013

By Matt Cupal
Jul 22, 2017

Nice route, Pavel! Three thuggy right hand boulder problems in a row. I vote 13B. I must admit didn't care much for the anchor location. But much higher and you won't get down with a 70. Lower and you miss some of the final slab moves.

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