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Voyage of the Damned 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Michael Steele
Page Views: 3,665
Submitted By: Jeffrey Gagliano on Oct 19, 2010

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JAG sets sail on "The Voyage of the Damned&qu...

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Just right of Chieftan, up typical dirty first pitch to belay at tree 20ft below ominous roof.

Up to the roof, lean out place great gear, take many deep breaths and go for ride. Clear the lip and immidiatly move right and up to good stance. Plug in the biggest piece you got and now to really go for a voyage. Move left navigateing a difficult and awkward wide crack. Hanging belay from tiny gear.

Pitch 3 goes straight up. Small gear (#1 camelot fits in a pocket protecting the giant reach). IMHO; the best route at the Gap.

Location 

Located in the Land of the Giants area

Protection 

#4 camelot mandatory, (#5 may be even better),
Mostly G.


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By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
Oct 19, 2010

Lead this on-sight in March 1995. I went home and slept for many hours afterwards.
By Borden
Sep 30, 2012

What is going on in this picture? Is your rope around your back?
By G.McCay
From: Galloway, NJ
Aug 18, 2015

Here's my educated guess... It appears (?) that he is wearing a wall harness that has two gear loops, one under each armpit. If this is the case, if he has gear racked up on the right side of the harness, his lead rope could be hung up on his gear on that side, trailing behind him, and creating that illusion. His last piece of gear would be down on the slab below as to not create a "Z" effect under the roof had he placed any gear at the back of the roof, hence creating massive rope drag once he turns the lip and climbs above. He also could have placed gear at the back of the roof to protect placing gear further out, then once he clipped said gear, he would unclip and remove the gear at the back of the roof, the belayer up takes up the slack, he takes "a deep breath" and goes for the ride!

Was I even close Jeff?
By Joel Kushlan
From: Philadelphia, PA
May 18, 2017

Can anyone opine to the PG-13? Specifically what grade is the climbing during the section considered PG-13. Also is their a pitch by pitch grade breakdown. If the 11a moves are poorly protected this is out of my league, but if the crux protects well and the PG-13 is some run out 5.9 slab at the end, than nbd.

Also what's the recommended guidebook for the area? I'm new out here (Philadelphia) and looking for some decent climbing.
By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
May 19, 2017

NJ Climbing Guide by Paul Nick is your best resource.
Grades are 5.8pg, 5.11a G, 5.9 G.

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