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The Bastille - W Face
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Voodoo 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Harrison, Stuberg, Brooks, 1981.
Page Views: 168
Submitted By: Matt Bauman on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Voodoo.

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  • Description 

    Short (60 feet) route...just down from the Bastille trail on upper west face...locate large V-slot with a huge chockstone that you can easily climb under. Climb the messy looking V-corner and just above the Chockstone turn small roof into steep V-slot (crux). Cruise this to the large and messy belay ledge.

    Protection 

    Small cams and medium hexes.


    Photos of Voodoo Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just above the crux on the first pitch.  The chock...
    BETA PHOTO: Just above the crux on the first pitch. The chock...

    Comments on Voodoo Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Fisher
    Jul 2, 2001

    [Definitely] not the rock quality you expect from Eldo. Getting into the v-slot was the only fun move. I also did the second pitch and found myself climbing through tons of pigeon droppings.
    By Peter Spindloe
    From: North Vancouver, BC
    Oct 22, 2001

    It doesn't deserve the star that it get's in the new Eldo Guide. To start the second pitch go directly up the bulge just left of where the first pitch comes up and traverse under the pigeon shit to a very licheny corner. Go up the corner to a ledge and up an obvious but not pretty groove. It's probably better to rappel than to try to find the walk-off.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    May 29, 2003

    I had a lot of fun on this climb..P1 only. It's not the 'classic', by any means, but I think this would be a great climb to take a less-experienced climber on, or good for those 'time-frame issue' climbing mornings, (if Out To Lunge and Breakfast in Bed was busy)--It's short, fun, and no raps required. The pro was a little weird, though, I thought. Based on comments, I'm glad I didn't do the Poo-poo second pitch.
    By Bruce Berkowitz
    Aug 22, 2003

    Agree with above. I thought this climb was highly overrated in both quality and difficulty. Theres only one remotely challanging move on the climb .
    By XOG
    Jan 14, 2004

    If you like doo-doo, do do Voodoo. Wrote that next to the route description in my guide in '93 or 4 or so, sounds like it still applies!

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