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Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V4-5 Font: 6B+ [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 907
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Apr 16, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Climb me!


If this was anywhere else, it would be perpetually caked with chalk. Fun movement, fine grained slopers, and a flat landing combine to make for a really great problem. Sit start beneath the bulge on a large, blocky two-handed jug and make a big move up to the sloping shelf above. Match the slopers, traverse right until the shelf ends, and then make the crux move up to a sidepull. Topout straight up on slopers.


On the downhill side of the Voodoo Boulder. See the Map. Downclimb off to the right.


Pad and maybe a spotter

Comments on Voodoo-U Add Comment
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By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Apr 28, 2015
rating: V4 6B

This climb is definitely worth seeking out. Very fun moves. I also went to higher left sloper from the rail and then straight up the middle to top out for a fun variation. Don't know if that has its own name.
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Apr 29, 2015
rating: V4 6B

Alec, I don't think that variation has a name yet, but I bet it's been climbed before. You might as well call it Voodoo-U-Too haha.

Anyways, I went to check this climb out yesterday and it's awesome, I didn't send (couldn't get that crux throw to the sidepull) but I had to clean up quite a lot moss on some of the holds higher up. Definitely going to be working this problem again sometime.

Also, careful when topping out, there's a loose chunk of rock at the top that looks like a good hold, but is really just a piece that will slide off if you grab it.

I looked around this boulder more and it looks like there might be potential for a pretty hard, slabby, slopey route just to the left of this, between the two trees. The landing is pretty bad though.
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Apr 29, 2015
rating: V4 6B

I was wondering why all the holds were pristinely clean when I went, ha. Definitely agree with the other line being climbed before, it was just too nice not to have been. Recorded a clip of it and might throw the name Voodoo-Who? onto it for the hell of it.
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Dec 22, 2015
rating: V4 6B

Footage of this great problem at 2:56

This problem basically taught me how to heel hook, interestingly enough, when I went back out to do it again I found easier beta without the heel hook.

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