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Voodoo Garden Men's Society 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brad Singer, Pete Paredes, Kevin Graves - August 2007
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Larry LeVoir on Sep 20, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

A non-descript slab route with one interesting little mantle move. A quick tick if you are in the area. Probably not a bad wall for the budding leader. The mantle is close to the ground and well protected. Suitable for top roping the little ones.

Location 

Faces north. Rap or lower.

Protection 

4 bolts Anchor on top.


Photos of Voodoo Garden Men's Society Slideshow Add Photo
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Aubrey firing the non-classics at Holcomb!
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BETA PHOTO: Closet Crag as seen from the vicinity One Eyed Cat...

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By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
Jul 13, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Yes, 5.7 for the upper section for sure. But the moves past the second bolt (a funky right handed/right foot mantle....somewhat insecure) is kinda heady. The slab above doesn't offer much for hands as you pull this move. You don't want to come off while making it through those moves or you'll come off and hit the slab (ankle breaker!). The second bolt should be about 18" higher (JMO). Check in the box. Not worth revisiting.
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Oct 13, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A silly little route but there is a 5.7 move mantling past the 2nd bolt (easier to the right) after which it's a hike to the anchors.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Sep 21, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I agree with Chris. That mantle move is thought-provoking.
By phylp
From: Upland
Jul 21, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

"The mantle is close to the ground and well protected." I disagree, and I agree with Dave and Chris. The bolt for the crux move is in a stupid place. You could instead place the bolt above the bulge and protect the fall, and it would be just as easy to clip. The way this is bolted, if you fell doing the high-step, you could easily get an ankle injury hitting the slab below. I knew I could do the move so I wasn't concerned but I definitely knew this would not be a place to fall.

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