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The Wall of Voodoo
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Voodoo Child 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: C Ruckgraber, S Sangdahl, J Baldwin, 1998
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Mark E Dixon on Nov 2, 2013

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  • Description 

    "I stand up next to a mountain
    And I chop it down with the edge of my hand"
    Jimi Hendrix

    15 years after being established, this worthwhile route still has some friable rock and a thought provoking flake.

    Surmount the initial overhang, head upwards to the 3rd bolt, then rightwards under, on and over a flake that could add to the adventure. Some fun moves lead to the final headwall, which is steep, hard and sharp. This may be a little height-dependent if you are shorter than 5'6". It is a challenging onsight no matter your height.

    Location 

    Voodoo Child is around the corner from Monkey Porch and Sufferin' Succotash. If approaching from above, it is easier to stay on the left bank (looking down) of the gully until you can cross back on a rocky ramp, then scramble up ledges to the base of the climb. There's a bolt for the belayer, clipping in would be a very good idea if the leader has any chance of falling before clipping bolt 1 on route. The ledges are not child/dog friendly but are a much pleasanter staging area than the base near Monkey Porch.

    Protection 

    8 bolts, ring and chain at anchor.


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