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Voodoo Amour 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dean Hart, Randy Atkinson, Ed Spat 1990
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Drew Marshall on May 11, 2016

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The rusty fixed gear has been replaced

Description 

An amazing roof crack that climbs out the middle of the 'visor' that sticks out above Whirlwind - impossible to miss

Approach pitches:

Approach by climbing Snake. Halfway up the pitch that goes up to the rightward traverse under a roof, make a leftward slab traverse to a tree at the base of an overhanging corner crack (part of Whirlwind) (10a)

Alternatively, approach by climbing Whirlwind.

p1 (10c) - Climb the overhanging crack (part of Whirlwind). Go left and climb the corner to the back of the alcove (gear belay)

p2 (11d) - Climb the roof crack (gear and bolts). Belay after turning the lip (gear)

Scramble or climb to reach the Broadway Ledge descent

Protection 

Camalots:
.4 to 2 (2x)
3 (1x)
4 (optional)

plus anything else you need for the approach pitches


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