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YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: timothy murray on Jul 11, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


Great technical crimpy climbing down low, followed by a big rest and moderate climbing until a hard powerful finish over the roof.


Marked on rock next to you are legend


Expansion bolts

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By Tao Techakanon
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Aug 1, 2016
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Pretty sure the length is 28 meters. Not 28 feet.
By Tao Techakanon
From: Bangkok, Thailand
Aug 22, 2016
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

ticked for the most shameless style ascent.

TR'ed, multiple hungs, ended up jugging the last few meters. It felt desperate. I flailed badly.
By Snook Chaipornvadee
Nov 1, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A rather sustain climbing from the beginning to a mid crux before a hang out, drink your coffee rest and then some fun climbing on steeper terrain to the final roof pull. Definitely a great climb.
By timothy murray
Nov 1, 2016

Someone told me I should write detailed beta:

- The first mini crux is between bolts 3 and 4 I believe, before you go left. A lot of people struggle going up to a small side pull with their right hand, so the smart way is actually to go to a smaller crimp on the right, foot up, then left hand in the side pull, then right hand higher, move feet up, left hand higher, then right hand into side pull. Extra moves but all much easier than big move to side pull.
- The main lower crux is going up the rail in the middle slabby bit. Best beta is right hand onto nob, left hand into small pocket, right foot up onto lower hand hold, right hand up to top of the rail, switch feet, left hand into pocket to left of top of rail, traverse right to jug.
- Top crux on the roof- left hand into pocket by clip, right hand to big jug, match and shake it a bit, then left hand over the top onto crimp in the middle of the slab, high right foot on the right block by jug, rock up onto right foot, small shitty crimp with right hand, then left hand in the jug far left. Done.
No need to thank me

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