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Sentinel Butte
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Volkswagen Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Alex Green and Dustin Snyder (July 2015)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: AlexGreen on Jun 29, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Parking.

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Description 

A continuous and aesthetic fist to offwidth crack scaling the entire height of the easternmost cliff on the shady north-facing side of the butte. Commit to the 5.8 thin-fist crux about twenty feet off the deck and then cruise up the featured offwidth for the remainder of the pitch. Pure fun!

Some obviously loose blocks were pulled off the route prior to the first ascent, but be aware that there could still be friable rock in places. Test suspect holds before yarding on them.

Location 

Park in the big gravel patch just north-west of the easternmost (smaller) radio tower. Squeeze through the very cool narrow slot chimney and downclimb a few 4th class moves to get to the base of the cliff (alternately, scramble down the scree a little further west), then follow the wall about 30 feet east.

Protection 

Use earth anchors set back from the cliff a ways to rig up a top rope. The climb itself takes mostly size 3-4 Camalots, but there is a small horizontal break above the crux that will take finger sized cams.

WARNING: For your safety, please do *not* place pro behind the right-leaning flake/crack guarding the top of the crux.


Photos of Volkswagen Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the Volkswagen Crack from near the to...
Looking down the Volkswagen Crack from near the to...
Rock Climbing Photo: The slot chimney leading to the base of the cliff.
BETA PHOTO: The slot chimney leading to the base of the cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Volkswagen Crack.
BETA PHOTO: Volkswagen Crack.

Comments on Volkswagen Crack Add Comment
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By Dsnydes
Jun 30, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It is rumored the first ascentionists used their German automobile as an anchor to establish this route..

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