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Voie Mazars Rebuffat (Eperon Sud Est du Minaret) T 

Voie Mazars Rebuffat (Eperon Sud Est du Minaret) 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1000'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gaston Rebuffat
Season: spring summer autumn
Page Views: 402
Submitted By: Benj84 on Sep 2, 2015  with updates from Rui Ferreira and 1 more

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one of the middle belay stances

Description 

This great route is on the Aiguille d'Argentière, which is in the Argentière glacier basin area (which here on MountainProject is under the Chamonix area).
Magnificent line put up by Rebuffat in the mid 60s on Le Minaret, everything slogging offwidth chimney to an airy roof and everything in between. Impeccable sculpted granite eats up gear wherever you feel like placing it.
The rappel line can be done off of either Versant Satanique or Metal Rasta, the two adjacent routes, we went down Metal Rasta and found it pretty hard to follow, make sure you do your homework on the rap line or end up spending a few hours rigging off of flakes and old pitons like we did!

Edit: route name was "Voie Mazars Rebuffat"

Location 

route is the most prominent line on le minaret, which is the glorious tri-peak formation to the north east of the refuge.

Protection 

we brought everything from 00 mastercam to a 3C4 with a set of nuts, used just about everything at least a couple times


Photos of Voie Mazars Rebuffat (Eperon Sud Est du Minaret) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: view from the base
view from the base
Rock Climbing Photo: the minaret is the central formation
BETA PHOTO: the minaret is the central formation

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