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Pointe Gaspard
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Voie Gaspard 1er S 

Voie Gaspard 1er 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Season: Summer
Page Views: 82
Submitted By: Seleucus on Jun 5, 2012

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View of Pointe Gaspard and the route "Pointe ...


Pitch 1 (5.5): Easy climbing trending left
Pitch 2 (5.6): Continue trending left on steep(ish) face climbing
Pitch 3 (5.8): Head for the top of the ridge
Pitch 4 (4th class): Slightly exposed 4th class to the next belay
Pitch 5 (5.8): Interesting slab
Pitch 6 (5.9): The crux pitch, only one 5.9 move with three bolts close together (becomes 5.7 A0 if you pull on the bolt at the crux)
Pitch 7 (5.6): Somewhat broken blocks to the summit.

Descent: Down-climb the east ridge along a faintly visible trail. Most of this descent is fairly moderate but there are a few difficult moves, mostly 3rd class with a bit of 4th. From the Col, descent toward Chamonix and return to l'Index via the trail you used to get to the climb. Although it is slightly out of the way, you can return to the start of the climb to retrieve any gear you may need.


From the l'Index ski lift take the trail to Col des Crochues. When the Pointe Gaspard spur is on your left, start ascending until you are about halfway up the spur. On the wall is the start of the left trending first pitch.


The entire route is well-equipped with bolts (Petzl Hangers). Belays have two bolts sometimes linked with a sling.

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