|Type:||Sport, 6 pitches, 650'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Seleucus on Jul 15, 2012|
|Comments on Voie Frison-Roche||Add Comment|
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By Jordan K
Aug 9, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun climb with a couple of fantastic pitches of crack climbing (P4 & P6). The rest was good but not outstanding in my mind. The route wanders a bit as it traverses and sometimes it was hard to spot the next bolt as they seemed to blend perfectly with the color of the rock (middle of P4 if I remember correctly). The route is well-bolted, but not nearly as closely spaced as its neighbor, Crakoukass, which is over-bolted frankly. The final belay at the summit had only one bolt, with the other one missing a hanger. I was able to rig something off a large nearby boulder though.
Fantastic views of the valley and Mont Blanc across the way.
When we arrived (around noon), there were 6+ parties on the route above us and we waited some 2-3 hours for the traffic jam to clear before being able to climb (late July '15). I don't know if this is typical or not, but it was definitely sub-optimal. We barely made it to the top in time for the last cablecar down! There were a couple of other routes nearby (to climber's right) that other parties were climbing while we waited, but I have no beta/rating -- although I believe they were somewhat harder than Frison-Roche.
Two first-evers for me: I saw a BASE jumper swoosh by overhead while climbing this route, plus I was passed by a free-soloist... I guess that's Chamonix for you!
By patrick kadel
Aug 31, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
A quick bit of info if you are going to do this:
- There are two bolts at the summit and at every belay. Other than quickdraws no other gear is needed.
- To start the route you find the belay bolt at the end of the trail but then traverse left about 15 feet to get on the route. There are earlier bolts that sucked me up a dirty chimney. If you are climbing a clean face for pitch one you are on it.
- I thought the crux was on Pitch 1. I'll go with easy 10a. After this pitch there are no moves harder then 5.9.
- Absolute blast watching the wingsuit jumpers fly by...we had 6 of them during the climb.
- Morning sun, mostly solid rock, comfortably bolted. Enjoyable.