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Aiguille Dibona
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Voie du Nain 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, Alpine, 8 pitches, 600', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Gaétan and Pascal Junique 1997
Season: summer and warm fall
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Feb 16, 2017

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Patty Black on the summit of Aiguille Dibona after...

Description 

A fun jaunt which climbs quickly.

Getting started: find the bolts. The start is a low angle slab which starts low to the right and traverses up to the left. There may be a snowfield here especially in early to mid season possibly extending into fall on a good snow year. The slab ramp is above this snowfield and traverses in a low angle above it.

The route is 6 pitches (easily done in 4 by climbing the full length of a 60m rope). The difficulties never seem too hard, and, may get to the 5.7 grade, give or take. The route climbs quickly on good rock.

Belay stances have a little garden gnome to keep you company.

Some steep climbing, but most of the terrain is on lower angle slabs.

The route tops out just uphill from the notch behind the Clochetons Gunneng. Downclimb to the Brèche des Clochetons slabs and traverse over to the base below the notch between Clochetons Gunneng and the main summit of Aiguille Dibona.

Join the Route Normale for two pitches to the summit. There’s a bit of fixed pro in the form of pitons and no shortage of spots for a few medium cams or nuts. Both pitches have well bolted anchors with rappel chains. From the last belay station, climb up to the main summit. Take in the stupendous view.

Descent:

Make one (50m) or two (25m) rappels back down the Route Normale. Since all routes converge on the summit, this could be a crowded situation. Take the climbers trail down the west side back to the hut.

Location 

From the Soreiller hut , hike under the steep south face of Aiguille Dibona around to the east side of the formation to the base of the Clochetons Gunneng (the detached spires north of the main summit of Aiguille Dibona) at around 2950m. The route starts on low angle slabs to the right of the big right-facing corner below the north shoulder of the Clochetons Gunneng. Allow around a half hour.

Protection 

A handful of quickdraws, a few slings and a smattering of nuts and cams in case the route is lost or additional protection is desired.


Photos of Voie du Nain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit of Aiguille Dibona...yay!
Summit of Aiguille Dibona...yay!
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch of Voie du Nain
Last pitch of Voie du Nain
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up p3 of Voie du Nain
Coming up p3 of Voie du Nain
Rock Climbing Photo: Gnome gets a pat on the head from Patty Black on t...
Gnome gets a pat on the head from Patty Black on t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Patty Black climbs the steep second pitch of Voie ...
Patty Black climbs the steep second pitch of Voie ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Gnome belay at end of first pitch
Gnome belay at end of first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Voie du Nain
Start of Voie du Nain
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of Voie du Nain (right and above the snowfie...
Start of Voie du Nain (right and above the snowfie...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route of the gnomes!
Route of the gnomes!

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