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Void Where Prohibited 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Brown and Guerrieri, 1995
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 86
Submitted By: Umph! on Jul 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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This is the furthest right route on Ironsides, and is actually detached from the main Ironsides formation. It ascends the slightly overhanging wall to the right of "Unknown Right of Slab-a-dab-a-doo". I recall 5 bolts, but the third is missing its hanger and the second is a thin-threaded spinner (hence the PG13). I used a 3" cam for the missing hanger, and its placement was adequate (so I understand why someone removed it).
The Gillett guide rates this 11a, but I would say 10c (it didn't feel like 11 to me). I only posted this route due to the big spinner and the missing hanger - also, it feels overrated, so give it a go!


It is the furthest rightside route on Ironsides; on a detached, overhanging wall.


Anchors with chains at top. 5 draws and a 2.5 to 3" cam.

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By Mike Dallin
Aug 3, 2008

A little history about the missing hanger: it was the fourth hanger that was missing. It wasn't removed by anyone for any ethical considerations. Rather, two summers ago a friend of ours was seconding the route, and they fell while still clipped in to this fourth bolt. The force of swinging outward was too much for the loosened bolt hanger, and it popped off. They couldn't find where it landed.... It is sobering to think too that another friend led the route not 15 minutes earlier, and took a leader fall on this bolt. We've known a few climbers who have been suckered onto the route only to find the forth bolt missing, and all of them just ran it out (scary) to the fifth bolt.

Fast forward to yesterday... we brought a replacement hanger and nut with us in case it was still missing. Another group climbing the route replaced the nut and hanger for us, using the original bolt stud (thanks to them!). So Brent, we must have been at the cliff at the same time. Small world.
By Croy T
From: Longmont, Co
Aug 3, 2008

And thanks Mike to you and your partner for bringing out the washer, nut, hanger and wrench. I was glad to reinstall the hanger while on top rope. Earlier one of our party had backed off after mulling over the possible R fall, and she is a pretty solid climber. She was delighted to give it a go from the ground up after we got the hanger back on. She's not from Colorado and was impressed with the local community looking after the routes. Thanks again.
By goatboywonder Patrick
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

As of 7/25/10 the bolts are all solid.
By John Dubya
Aug 31, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Update: bolt 5 hanger is loose as of 8/29/12 (last bolt before the anchors)...not a huge deal because the meat of the climb is over.
Otherwise, a really fun route that is a over-hanging relief from the majority of techy slab out there.

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