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VJ's 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
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Page Views: 820
Submitted By: TSluiter on Oct 13, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: From the bottom of VJ's route, just looking at a s...

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Description 

P1 - Start at landing up the rock stairs from the base of the slab. Follow up and left along the features with gear until you can clip a bolt. Continue up the slab following the path of least resistance with gear and bolts along the way. Finish up over an overlap to a two bolt anchor to the right of a ledge w/ trees. Sections may feel a little runout, though not too bad, know your slab technique. ~190ft. Can be done with a 60m if managed well.

P2 - Follow up and left to large ledge. Walk left on big ledge a few feet and continue up on unprotected slab. 5.3/5.4 runout of about 25 ft, great gear before the traverse starts. As you approach the headwall above, look left to traverse through the trees for approx 30ft. Downclimb a few feet to a nice ledge at the base of the open book. Small cams for anchor. ~100ft.

P3 - Straightforward, take the corner all the way to the top. Gear is good, climbing is easy. ~100ft.

Location 

The route runs from the base below the great corner to the top of the standard route.

Walk straight up to the top, walk-off the hiking trail to the left (15-30 minutes) to the main lot, and then left back up the road 3/4 mile to the climber's trail.

Protection 

P1 slab has a few bolts, you will need gear as well. Bolted anchors at top.

All gear from there.


Photos of VJ's Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Old 1/4" with Leeper style hanger vs. the 1/2...
Old 1/4" with Leeper style hanger vs. the 1/2...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up to first bolt. Later I was a bit sad at ...
Coming up to first bolt. Later I was a bit sad at ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from first belay.
Looking down from first belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Topping out.
Topping out.

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