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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 151
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Jan 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Gear placement for Vixen. There's a cam way back i...


Start in the large crack then step right onto the face.


See area description.


mixed bolts and gear

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By Hamish Malin
From: Fredericksburg, VA
Jul 17, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

FYI on gear placement, as the first pic was my lead: This route leads better without bolt to right; I actually didn't clip the blue draw in picture when leading (gear was pre-placed on toprope). Climb took a larger (4.5) cam lower down, but would go easier with an even larger one. The cam in pic is ~3.5, followed by a hex and two tri-cams in pockets off to right. Tri-cam placements are bomber when weighted with some excess gear. IMO using bolt would only add excessive rope drag and risk of chopping rope (see below).

Also be warned, when cleaning gear from top down your rope can be exposed to a very sharp edge on right side of crack ~20ft up; I managed to expose my rope core on this while lowering and cleaning. Be vigilant or have your follower clean from bottom up.

Lead is especially fun w/out bolt to right as you can commit to the squeeze chimney -> offwidth. Probably goes at a higher grade if you fully commit to crack.... cheers ;)
By Karl Kiser
Jul 21, 2017

The route was set to climb the face, hence the bolt, and not use the wide crack to the left for gear. We climbed up the large crack then stepped onto the face and clipped the bolt as the first piece of gear. There was no rope issue when protected via the face. But clearly people need to aware of a sharp edge on the climb.
By Hamish Malin
From: Fredericksburg, VA
Sep 10, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

OK, but where one stops placing gear in crack and transitions to face could be climber dependent and driven by height, risk aversion, etc. - I still think climbers should be wary of the sharp edge while lowering/cleaning. I would also argue that it's a cleaner climb, albeit possibly more difficult, if one stays in the crack. To each his/her own, however - I find myself desperate for some offwidth hence the variation. FWIW, the face moves were nice as well!


ps - just saw your comment. Why doesn't MP update users when there's a reply to a route comment??!?

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