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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Jan 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Gear placement for Vixen. There's a cam way back i...


Start in the large crack then step right onto the face.


See area description.


mixed bolts and gear

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By Hamish Malin
Jul 17, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

FYI on gear placement, as the first pic was my lead: This route leads better without bolt to right; I actually didn't clip the blue draw in picture when leading (gear was pre-placed on toprope). Climb took a larger (4.5) cam lower down, but would go easier with an even larger one. The cam in pic is ~3.5, followed by a hex and two tri-cams in pockets off to right. Tri-cam placements are bomber when weighted with some excess gear. IMO using bolt would only add excessive rope drag and risk of chopping rope (see below).

Also be warned, when cleaning gear from top down your rope can be exposed to a very sharp edge on right side of crack ~20ft up; I managed to expose my rope core on this while lowering and cleaning. Be vigilant or have your follower clean from bottom up.

Lead is especially fun w/out bolt to right as you can commit to the squeeze chimney -> offwidth. Probably goes at a higher grade if you fully commit to crack.... cheers ;)
By Karl Kiser
3 days ago

The route was set to climb the face, hence the bolt, and not use the wide crack to the left. There was no rope issue when protected via the face.

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