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YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Wright, 1998
Page Views: 4,672
Submitted By: Ramin Jamshidi on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (145)
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Mike bunched up in the crux.

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This is an excellent route with a brief cruxy section up to and over a small roof. Both below and above this are fun slabby moves. The rating is a little soft (Refer Madness on this same wall is decidedly more difficult, for example), so if you're looking to claim your first 11 lead, this is a fun route for it!


10 bolts; 2 bolt anchor. Tightly bolted.

Photos of Vixen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route ends at the roof above Luke. The climbin...
The route ends at the roof above Luke. The climbin...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux thrutch. The feet are sketchy, and the ha...
The crux thrutch. The feet are sketchy, and the ha...
Rock Climbing Photo: Making the reach over the ceiling using a small fl...
Making the reach over the ceiling using a small fl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the ceiling. The crux is clipping and reac...
Pulling the ceiling. The crux is clipping and reac...

Comments on Vixen Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 11, 2016
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Might soft. 10b is more like it. Nonetheless, really fun!
By allen light
May 3, 2003

For the totally bored, there is a nearly completely independent from Vixen and Hey Good Lookin' is a super-squeezed in between TR variation named in honor of Allen Light called Squeezing in a bit of Texas. Maybe 11a if Vixen is 11a.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 6, 2003

If you don't mind looking stupid, which I don't, you can "saddle up" on the horn right over the roof and get a no hands, no foot rest. At 98 degrees F this allows for one to needlessly overchalk. JM

By Anonymous Coward
Mar 25, 2004

What is the second pitch to this? It goes up the upside down v and then pulls the roof. Has anyone done it?
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 28, 2004

Real trad rating: 5.9-.
By Doug Redosh
From: Golden, CO
Jul 6, 2005
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun route, no way 9-.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 23, 2008

I'm glad at least a few people think this is harder than the 10c guidebook rating. I was desperate under the ceiling despite having the advantage of a double draw hanging from the bolt over the lip. Once I got the jug, the ceiling itself was easy.
By Crag Dweller
From: New York, NY
Jul 26, 2009

This is a fun climb. It's definitely not 11 once you get past the roof. IMO, the climbing past the roof is, as my buddy said, not memorable. Moving through the roof is fun, though, and I'd give it at least a hard 10 rating. It's a little heady for the clip protecting that section because the holds are a bit sketchy and there are a couple features below that have the potential to make a fall nasty.
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I took a fall at the roof and it went clean. Did anyone else use the beta where you throw yourself up to get your butt sitting on the huge horn just left of the clip? Awesome rest! I thought the climbing above the roof was decent. The big ledges for your feet at most of the clips take away some excitement, but I felt that the climbing was good.
By slim
Aug 24, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Annoying novelty clip over the roof, almost earns it a bomb.
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jul 23, 2012

Don't feel like the roof is anywhere near 11a. More like 10 b/c. The third or second to last bolt before the anchors feels tough if you climb it direct and don't skirt left to all the chalk. Seems as though no one climbs it direct...hmm.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Aug 5, 2013

Tried the second pitch today. Doesn't look like it sees much action. The first bulge to below the huge roof is manageable, but the roof itself felt pretty burly. Some flat blocks to sink out against then some sloping gastons as part of the crack. Above the lip, there are a couple of crimps and an undercling. I stopped there though as the rock quality was not so great and I wasn't making much progress. I thought the movement felt oddly similar to the Double Stout roof around the corner but with much worse rock.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 6, 2015

I replaced the anchor on this today with some 3.5" SS wedge bolts and single ring hangers, FYI.
By Eric Thomas
From: Colorado
Apr 5, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

I'm going to out on a limb here and say that I felt the roof is not easy like everyone is saying. I have a decent reach, and I had to clip on the insecure awkward left hand. Blowing that would really suck. I think the bolt should have been below the roof so you could clip at a more comfortable stance, power up to the juggy rail, and then clip the other bolt that's in your face.

Yes, the rest of the route is 10ish (and definitely the highlight), but we are supposed to rate routes by what the hardest move is not rate each move individually and then average them out.

Moral of the story, I climb 11s fairly regularly. If you're looking to redpoint your first, this isn't ideal unless you're seven feet tall.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jul 11, 2016
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The "butt sitting" move makes this route easy for a 5.11.

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