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YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ben Kiessel (FFA), Matt Pickren, Bill Grasse
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 706
Submitted By: Bill Grasse on Aug 19, 2012

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I tried and pulled a muscle... and so must try aga...


Ben had been wondering about the line for a while. So one day we set up a rope on it and after closer inspection, a great climb was revealed. Matt and I later bolted it while Ben was at work, and then Ben came back and nabbed the FFA... so there's that....

The start takes gear and is not as easy as it looks. Also, clipping the first bolt is quite hard. Continue up big moves on the flake and finish with delicate climbing on the slab up high. Oh... and have fun clipping the anchors proudly... :)


This is left of Yosemite Crack by 100 feet. Look for a slab with pockets below a big flake that is near a bolt.


#0.4-0.75 Camalots will protect the pods down low with the option of tiny cams to the right between them (black/blue Aliens). Three bolts protect the last 2/3rds of the climb, and as of now, there is lowering anchors, but we'll see how long these last until they're stolen.

Photos of Vivian Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben on the FFA down low.
Ben on the FFA down low.

Comments on Vivian Add Comment
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By Ben Kiessel
Sep 4, 2012

So there's that.
By Matthias Holladay
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 6, 2012

What a great name!
By Devin Fin
Sep 25, 2012

Ben, solid work...I like the locks part the most...good find.

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