Visiting Moab for the first time!

Hi Group,

My girlfriend and I will be visiting Moab for the first time in a couple of weeks. I have been told that it is important to have multiple cams of the same size (which we have) in order to tackle some of the crack climbs, what about stoppers? Should we have a couple sets or should we just focus on cams?

Thank you,

Daniel

What do you want to climb in Moab?

But in general, focus on cams. Single set of nuts will be fine. If youre inexperienced at placing passive protection you definitely wont be placing it as much as cams. Furthermore the parallel cracks that are typical of the moab area are ideal for cams.

Thanks Grog M,

As of now, we don't have a specific plan. Since this will be our first trip to the land of splitters we will play it by ear.

Castleton Tower, Ancient Art and the Ice Cream Parlor Crag are on our radar.

Daniel

Thanks for the info guys!

J Marsella,

I read somewhere that when climbing in Arches to try and not use white chalk. Is that true? If that is true, can you buy colored chalk?

Check Out Pagan Mountaineering in Moab. Cool little shop over by Eddie McStiffs.

J Marsella wrote:I think we did ancient arts with a single rack-- maybe an extra BD 1,2,3 to sew up the mud chimney. Wall Street and Ice Cream Parlor you'll probably get by on a single rack (with some small cams for ICP) and a set of nuts. SomeWS climbs are nicer with an extra cam here and there, but it varies. Check out Owl Rock in Arches Nat'l Park-- singles again. Indian Creek is a different story. We went out there with 6-7 each in BD 1 & 2 and a couple less each in the 3 - 3.5 range. Of course some folks will place less or want more. We did not want for gear with that setup. Have fun out there

J Marsella is right about the cam quantities some lines need at IC, but don't think you have to bring that many. That's one reason why the Creek tends to be a pretty social place. Most people are willing to team up and share cams a bit.

Dan. T wrote:I read somewhere that when climbing in Arches to try and not use white chalk. Is that true? If that is true, can you buy colored chalk?

More than that, white chalk is illegal in Arches. You are likely to be ticketed if caught with it, and rangers do check. You can buy colored chalk, but I just don't bother with chalk at Arches - the combination of zero humidity, very little face climbing, and Arches being a place where most people will want to climb well within their abilities because of rock quality make chalk much less necessary.

Group,

Thank you for the feedback, I truly appreciate it.

One last question. Its kind of broad

As this will be my first trip to Moab, what climb(s) and or areas would you recommend/suggest?

I live in New York (climd at the Gunks, Adirondacks) and lead into the 5.10 range. I'm not sure how my abilities will translate to Moab. My girlfriend and I climbed at Red Rocks last April and truly enjoyed climbing on sand stone.

Thanks again,

Daniel

Your ideas above are good ones. Also add Potash Road, Owl Rock and Dark Angel in Arches, Indian Creek(South Sixshooter and Easter Island are two towers you could do at the creek besides the cragging), and Lizard Rock while you are doing Ancient Art. Definitely try to do some towers since they are such a cool experience.

Longbow Chimney on Parriot Mesa is a super fun climb if you want to try something a little different. Great free climbing then an easy but exposed aid pitch to a cool little summit. You'll probably have it all to yourself.

Thanks for the suggestions!

Daniel

FYI, Owl Rock is closed for raptors. In Moab, I personally like climbing at Ice Cream Parlor over Wall Street. If it's too hot, get Karl Kelley's "High on Moab" book, it has info on stuff in La Sals - there are lots of moderates and I hear pretty good.

Don't hesitate to visit the Creek even just for a day, even if you don't end up climbing. A lot of 9s and 10-s can be led with a single to a double rack.

Don't mean to hijack this thread. But if you want to buy "high on Moab" (which is a great guidebook), I am selling one for $25 shipped. Retail $35, I believe.

The great thing about Moab/ Creek is that it is FULL of climbers. A quick census of most campgrounds you will find yourself at will usually net some folks willing to combine racks or lend cams if you have your eyes on a specific climb that requires more than your rack will provide.

Wall Street is worth a visit. It gets knocked as the "local crowded" crag but there are a lot of really fine crack and bolted face climbs there, as well as a good community and the opportunity to belay out of your car (kinda cool...). You could easily knock out a few days there.

Castle Valley is worth a stop as well. North Chimney or Kor-Ingalls on Castleton are both accessibly-graded (don't expect gimmes though) and Jah Man is AWESOME in the 5.10 range once you feel comfortable on those pesky cracks.

Looking Glass Arch is a cool destination climb, more for the rap and adventure than the actual climbing.
mountainproject.com/v/regul…

+1 Ancient Art... it's just one of those things you have to do.

+1 for the Creek absolutely being worth a stop. You are cheating yourself out of one of (if not THE) best crack climbing destinations in the world if you don't. Camping is free unlike most spots near town, and the community there is incredible-- you'll have no problem finding cams!. I have a double rack and have made it up a lot of good climbs there no problem.
Best thing about the creek is that grades are entirely subjective, more so than anywhere else IMO. You may find 5.9 offwidths that spit you off and 5.11+s that fit your hand and fingers so well that you walk up them. Ignore grades, push your limits, plug gear, have fun.

Wake and Bake Cafe has great breakfast sandwiches. Moab Brewery is the best (and only) place in town to get good full-strength beer. Pagan Mountaineering is a great shop, and GearHeads has the best selection of outdoor gear by far (as well as a free water-filling station).

And as always... PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't climb on the rock after a rain. If the dust at the base of the climb is still damp, the rock is probably too moist. Sandstone is soft and porous.

HAVE A BLAST!!!

Shiho wrote:Don't mean to hijack this thread. But if you want to buy "high on Moab" (which is a great guidebook), I am selling one for $25 shipped. Retail $35, I believe.

Thank you Shiho, appreciate the offer but I already picked up a copy.