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Visor, The T 

Viser Chimney 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 21, 2014

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Description 

Long ignored, but deserving more attention. The chimney can be climbed mostly as a straight in crack. The crux is some steep face climbing getting into the chimney.

When I was on this some very large rocks peeled off near the start. It is cleaner now, but requires some thin insecure face moves that are very hard to protect. There is a shallow cam placement on the left side but the rock is soft there. I was considering adding a bolt. If you climb this let me know if you think it is needed.

Location 

right side of the Visor, about 50' west of the snow closure gate near Snow Creek parking lot.

Protection 

standard rack to 2". bolted anchor is for the Visor about 15' to the left, you can place a cam in a crack above the big ledge for a directional to bring up the 2nd. No chains , bring sling or walk off, or access routes above.


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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 9, 2014

There are still some very large loose flakes at road side, be careful.
By Curt Haire
Apr 30, 2015

climbed this route today 4/30/2015 -- It is not included in Kramar's current Leavenworth Rock guide, but we found evidence of at least one much earlier ascent: a rusty quarter-inch rawl stud at the entrance to the chimney, and a "vintage" cam almost completely buried and overgrown with vegetation fixed in the crack in the back of the chimney.

from the roadside, climbing directly up the thin crack to the chimney, then through the chimney to the ledge, yields a pitch well over 100'. 60' gets you from the roadside to the bottom of the chimney...

the thin crack below the chimney seemed a bit harder than 5.9... it protects very well with stoppers, rp's, and ballnuts; this is one of those pitches you can "lead with a toprope". even laced up, it felt harder than 5.9.

escape was via rappel from a 3" diameter oak tree, to which we downclimbed from the climbers' left end of the ledge. after downclimbing to the tree, our doubled 60-meter rope JUST reached the ground at roadside.

protection included a range from rp's and ballnuts to a #3 camalot; many small pieces (finger & smaller) for initial crack, then hand-sized pieces to protect the upper chimney.

I might give it a star for "obvious line", but I certainly wouldn't give two stars -- too many footballs & dinner plates still looming...

given the abundance of traditional protection placements, bolting seems unnecessary, but it might attract more traffic to the route...

-Haireball