|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||geoff georges on Feb 21, 2014|
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|Comments on Viser Chimney||Add Comment|
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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Sep 9, 2014
|There are still some very large loose flakes at road side, be careful.|
By Curt Haire
Apr 30, 2015
climbed this route today 4/30/2015 -- It is not included in Kramar's current Leavenworth Rock guide, but we found evidence of at least one much earlier ascent: a rusty quarter-inch rawl stud at the entrance to the chimney, and a "vintage" cam almost completely buried and overgrown with vegetation fixed in the crack in the back of the chimney.
from the roadside, climbing directly up the thin crack to the chimney, then through the chimney to the ledge, yields a pitch well over 100'. 60' gets you from the roadside to the bottom of the chimney...
the thin crack below the chimney seemed a bit harder than 5.9... it protects very well with stoppers, rp's, and ballnuts; this is one of those pitches you can "lead with a toprope". even laced up, it felt harder than 5.9.
escape was via rappel from a 3" diameter oak tree, to which we downclimbed from the climbers' left end of the ledge. after downclimbing to the tree, our doubled 60-meter rope JUST reached the ground at roadside.
protection included a range from rp's and ballnuts to a #3 camalot; many small pieces (finger & smaller) for initial crack, then hand-sized pieces to protect the upper chimney.
I might give it a star for "obvious line", but I certainly wouldn't give two stars -- too many footballs & dinner plates still looming...
given the abundance of traditional protection placements, bolting seems unnecessary, but it might attract more traffic to the route...