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Viscious Circles S,TR 

Viscious Circles 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,802
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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The route follows the leftmost bolt line. Slabby c...

Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the left most bolted climb on the lower face. The fourth bolt seems like it would only contribute rope drag, as the route is "done" after the second clip.

The crux is between the first and second clips, and invlves an awkward balancy move that is a dyno for short people. There are 4 huecos in and after the crux, and the friction on all of them sucks.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Walk off or bring long (10' +) slings for a top rope.


Photos of Viscious Circles Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing into the sun.
Climbing into the sun.
Rock Climbing Photo: 7/7/2002
BETA PHOTO: 7/7/2002
Rock Climbing Photo: a tricky lead
a tricky lead
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian lunges for the second hueco at the crux.
Brian lunges for the second hueco at the crux.

Comments on Viscious Circles Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Aug 19, 2004

cool slopers, tricky high step. great TR setup.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Jun 28, 2006

Actually, the 4th bolt is not gratuitous. When you clip it, you traverse left and finish the route by doing a left-hand mantle up on a tiny edge to a sloper. This adds another 5.10 move to the route.
By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

Didn't feel 10c.
By Alec S
From: Berkeley, CA
Jul 31, 2010

Cool route. The difficulty of the crux depends a lot on how tall you are. I can see someone tall(er than me) having no problem with hitting the second bolt. I had a bit more trouble.
By steple
Jan 28, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with Bruce - you miss out if you don't clip the fourth bolt and skip the mantle.
By Joe Anderson 1
Jun 12, 2016

Fun route. I had commitment issues going out for the first bolt, but pretty smooth sailing after that. The pockets don't have a good lip that you can really grab, but if you lean the right way and sequence it properly there is plenty there to get you up.

I found feet to be critical, and lots of high stepping into the pockets I used previously for hands allowed me to really push my hips into the wall which made for better clipping stances.
By Nick Andrew
Sep 10, 2017
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

After climbing this a few times over the last couple of years I have to agree with Jim Thornburg's guidebook. This route is solid 10d in my opinion, and it seems to give shorter climbers a LOT of trouble. I laughed when I grabbed the first scoop and felt how little I had to work with in terms of friction. Stick-clip makes things a lot less stressful.. A very fun route though!! One of my favorites in the Bay Area.

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