Gnarly. In the rare years that it comes in, it not only looks gnarly, it climbs gnarly. Virtual Reality lies just 30m to the right of Murchison Falls, but the two routes have almost nothing in common, except maybe the similarities of the first pitch.
P1, 60m WI4+: Climb up good, undulating ice through several steep steps to a comfortable belay on a big ledge
P2, 35m WI5: Continue up short pitch on steep, varied ice to a comfortable belay on a ledge.
P3, 40m WI6: The crux pitch, which forms differently over the years, begins by stepping left from the belay. It will likely involve climbing very steep, and sometimes rotten ice through a collection of pillars. There is a fixed pin that can be clipped when the ice is thin. Set up a belay as the good ice comes to an end.
P4, 30m, WI3+: Continue up from the belay, then traverse ice and snow up to the right until you're on top.
Head to the top of Murchison Falls, and find the bolted rappel station on the very right hand (climber's right) side of the route. Find or build v-thread rap stations on the way down.
To the right of Murchison Falls. Just before cresting the hill while driving north alongside Mt. Murchison, park at the Murchison drainage. Hike up the left side of of the drainage all the way to to the open area below the falls. There can be avalanche hazard on the slopes leading to the base of the ice, and watch out for cornices and sloughs from both routes.
P3, crux. Photo: Nate Erickson
Nate Erickson on P1. Photo, Dave Rone
BETA PHOTO: Virtual Reality on the right, Murchison.Falls on t...