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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3

Type:  Aid, 7 pitches, 700', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A3 [details]
Page Views: 1,539
Submitted By: Jim Reynolds on Feb 20, 2013

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Virginia is a 7 pitch dependent line that links into Tangerine Trip. It is a great way to get some solid nailing practice, that links into an easier route.

Pitch one is rarely ever climbed, but looks pretty wild and fun. Most opt for the Lost in America start (C3)

Most of this route is pretty tame with a few peckers here and there

The fun is that you can choose mix and match this route with TTrip as they link at the top of the 4th pitch and the 7th.

The 6th pitch is the crux, with a rivet off the anchor, a cam in a wreched expanding flake and then several hook placements traversing left until you can finally sink some bomber pins in an endless nailing corner.

According to the super topo pitch seven is A1, but it is far more difficult than all the other A3/C3 pitches on the route (except pitch 6)

The Super topo is a little off, but once you are on the route, its pretty simple to follow.

Enjoy! sorry i left the description out for so long!

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By Tito Krull 1
Jan 7, 2016

Climbed the first 4 pitches as an alternate to avoid the heinous downward pendulum pitch of T Trip. Is a much more appealing option to start T trip. The first pitch is defiantly real, or at least a real ground fall potential. after the 5th class loose scramble you get behind a tree and arrange your ropes. then the use of the rivet/stud gets you up into a short seem that would take poor gear. i'm 6 foot and could reach beyond this tiny a3 section to a fix LA. there is enough fixed gear on this pitch to minimize nailing, once into the start of the roof i did slug in my first ever pin placements, i wont say what i placed, thats your adventure. the rock in this bit could be better, its kinda exfoliated/rotten. the anchor is a pin and one bomb bolt. the next pitch goes CLEAN try not nailing it its fun!! that 5.7 move at the top of pitch 2 feels pretty F-ing real with the whole rack on, haha. won;t say what we placed,but the next 2 pitches went CLEAN and fun! with the occasional fix piece to help us not nail. then you are up under the base of the Avatar pitch on the T. Trip.


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